I have a bare shaft testing kit with different spine arrows. I am shooting nock hard left with the 500 spine test arrow. I figured that if I tried the 400 spine that it would at least straighten up some but it is still nock left. Can there be another reason for nock left besides spine weakness?
How heavy is your draw weight ? How long are your arrows ?
It could be how you shoot , I tend to shoot an arrow about 10# heavier than the average shooter because of the way I release .
It's hard to tell , without seeing you shoot .
Another factor could be , how close to center shot is your shelf cut .
Form can also influence things.I like to use a wide variety of screw in point weights and that sorts out issues very quickly.
Plucking,top finger pressure on the nock and other form issues can cause an arrow to bounce off the edge of the shelf causing a false weak indication.Look for wear there.You should also hear it.
My bow is 51 @ 28 but I only draw 25, so I am probably drawing 45 pounds or so.
I shot over and over again and it was always nock left. I tried a light field point and also a 250 grain point and it was always left.
The bow is only 56 inches and I do feel a lot of pressure/pinching on my top finger (split release).
Bow hand torque can cause nock left. Watch your top limb as you shoot. If it moves right at all or turns for a right hand shooter you are torquing the bow.
http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html
When bareshafting, I'm never very concerned about nock attitude of the bare shaft. Release can have a tremendous influence on it.
I like to get my bareshafts hitting the same point as my fletched shafts and call it "good". The fletching will straighten out the arrow.
A 56" bow isn't too short for a 25" draw length.A high elbow on the drawing arm can cause downward pressure on the nock,enough that you may see a bend in the arrow,while drawn.Determine if your elbow is level with the nock.
At any rate,with that drastic a change in point weight and the same results,I'd be looking at form issues and if it is,you will chase your tail,tuning,until you sort it out.Don't get in a hurry.Take your time and enjoy the learning journey.
X's 2 what Bladepeek said. Exactly, it's how they group with the fletched shafts...
If your shooting right handed, it sounds like your arrows to long. Start cutting down 1/4" at a time.
You need to make sure your release hand stays in line with the arrow/bow after you release. I anchor at corner of mouth, and when i release i slow drag across my cheek to my ear, keeping contact the whole way. Only then will you know what your arrow truely is doing...
Well, I finally got it to work. I had to cut 4.5 inches off of the 500 spine test arrow to get it to hit nock even (left and right). I then had to adjust the nock up and down till I got the arrow hitting just a little nock high. I could not get it perfect but I think it's close. I then cut off a few flectched arrows to match the length of the bare shaft and will shoot them tonight when it cools off to see how they do.
Thanks for your help.
QuoteOriginally posted by Shadowhnter:
You need to make sure your release hand stays in line with the arrow/bow after you release. I anchor at corner of mouth, and when i release i slow drag across my cheek to my ear, keeping contact the whole way. Only then will you know what your arrow truely is doing...
Hey that's the same release I use! Learned it from my man Jeff k
Glad you got it worked out.