Was thinking of trying the grizzly single bevels this year and was wondering what methods everyone uses to get them sharp?
I use a standard millbastard file and leather stropping block. Works like a champ! I have also used my KME and it does a fantastic job also, I tend to like the file better only because it is easy to touch up in the field with a file.
Im a file and strop guy as well.
Just make sure you keep the flat side flat. Do that and it is hard to believe how sharp they will get.
Pretty much the same. A CLEAN mill bastard file then a jewel stick afterwards.
Something like 90% or more of the stokes on the bevel side, then a couple light strokes on the opposite side. I have a Kme sharpener and that works well too, but you might be using a file initially also. The newer grizzleys have a very good initial grind on them, making the job easier. At least that is my observation.
Here is a link to how I do it.
http://www.probowsociety.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2856
KME!
KME broadhead sharpener.
I sharpen mine with a file and ceramic stick or butchers steel.
KME broadhead sharpener. x2
I am very klutzy. I use the kme and like it but more skillful people would probably not need it.
I have both models of the kme's, if I was just going to have one, it would be the knife sharpener. If you get the broadhead model, buy some wide diamond stones so you can do the whole length of the blade in one pass. Sharpening one side does give a sharper edge, but putting a tiny bevel on the back helps remove the burr faster and makes the edge more durable and you still get good torque.
http://www.singlebevelbroadheads.com/Honing%20the%20Tuffhead.html
Have also been looking at the vpa terminators but have read that you can't get a 3 blade as sharp as a 2. Anyone have any experience with this or reasons why this is true or false?
I have the best luck with a 6" mill smooth file and a butchers steel.
It puts a pretty good edge on,and is easy to touch up in the field.
Ray
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckeye1977:
Have also been looking at the vpa terminators but have read that you can't get a 3 blade as sharp as a 2. Anyone have any experience with this or reasons why this is true or false?
Because of the grind angle on three bladed pyramid style heads, the blade angle isn't as steep I guess you would call it, if you hollow grind them, which takes a great great deal of work, they can be made sharper. But with the right technique they can be still made wicked sharp, it's just a lot harder. Tom Clum Senior from rmsgear sharpened up some Snuffers for me one time we went turkey hunting and they were scary sharp, but he's a master at sharpening! Three bladed heads don't have to be as sharp though, they make a hole that won't close up! That's the reason tri sided bayonets were outlawed by the Geneva Convention, luckily deer didn't sign off on that!
Duplicate post :knothead:
At home: several strokes on the bevel with a 10" mill file. Next is a 6" mill (Kustom King) file staying on the bevel but ending with a few light strokes on the flat side. I follow that with a light steeling and then strop on dry cardboard. My dogs run and hide at this time.
On the hunt: 6" mill file mainly on the bevel but finishing with alternating lighter strokes on both sides. Then I flip my file on-edge and steel the broadhead lightly. That's it. The main thing on SB heads is to avoid the flat side most of the time and don't work it until the bevel is very good. I try to work the non-bevel side as flat as possible, but have no worries if it's not precisely flat to the tool.
I customize my own files to produce a good steeling surface on the file's edges.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/dillbilly/IMG_2535.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/dillbilly/media/IMG_2535.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g13/dillbilly/IMG_2540.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/dillbilly/media/IMG_2540.jpg.html)
Interesting thread. I've never used a SB so decided to try them this year as I'm going after Bullwinkle in Newfoundland in Sept. and from what I've been reading a SB is the best on larger game. I know there are those out there who will disagree with that assessment but that's not what I'm looking for here. Settled on the 200gr Cutthroat screw-ins. Watched a lot of SB sharpening vids on Ytube and decided to give the mill bastard file a try. It works great. Found that some of the other methods were too time consuming for my limited attention span. The file method not so much. Got rid of the machining striations and now have a nice smooth surface that won't take too much more work to get "scary sharp", as they say. Looks as though they will get the job done when the time comes.
Very interesting information guys I really appreciate it! Also like the history lesson from old goat about the bayonets!
I use a stone and get them shaving snap no problem.
It's pretty hard to beat a 1" x 30" belt sander from harbor freight ($39). Get a series of belts/grits and the leather strop belt online. Your still probably under $75. It takes a little finesse but after the first one or two it's pretty simple. I color the bevel with marker a few times during the process to maintain the correct angle. My most common used grits are 400-600-then the leather belt with compound. I could use a 1000 grit belt but didn't buy one yet. No need for anything courser than 400. It makes Grizzlies so sharp you can't even feel any drag when shaving hair off your arm. I take my time. About 5 min ea. I did 12 in about an hour. That includes interruptions to glass the bean field for the resident doe. The edge is so smooth it can be hard to determine just how sharp it is. I do have the KME single bevel diamond system but haven't used it this year. I can appreciate the precision bevel it makes. But I am getting them sharper with the sander and enjoy the time savings. Plus the sander is the best and fastest knife sharpener! Those junker kitchen knives that have been dull for 10 years are shaving sharp in an instant.