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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Longtoke on July 01, 2016, 01:09:00 PM
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Want to get my feet wet with aluminum shafting but don't know where to start. Will comparing spine deflection get me in the ball park?
It's for a r/d longbow cut 1/8 inch shy of center ff string and 46# at my 26 inch draw. I have some 2013 shafts on the way from the saint Jude auction to play with.
As always any advice is greatly appreciated.
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2013 seems a bit stiff, unless you are shooting very heavy points. Try this chart for a reference, I have found it to be helpful - but I have also found that it tends toward the stiff side. As an example, I am shooting 45# @ 28", draw just over 29", 31" shaft. Cut to center recurve. I am shooting a 2016 with 145gr. point, flies great.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf
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I'm thinking you might want 1918s and leave them long . Cut them back as you bare shaft them . Also you might get a test kit with verring weight tips .
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You didnt state what weight head you want to shoot! Makes all the difference in the world. .. have 4 bows in that vicinity of weight @ 28 inches and are not cut to center. 2 of those bows are set up for a 2117...one at 30 and the other at 30 1/2"....but the point weight is pushing 260 gr.
No possible way to tell you a suitable shaft, without knowing at a minimum of what weight head you want to use, and approximately how long you want your finished arrow to be. Then we can get you really close... :knothead: :biglaugh:
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Originally posted by Graps:
Also you might get a test kit with verring weight tips .
X2
This eliminates a lot of insert pulling and shaft cutting. Just remember you can't put it back on once you cut it off.
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I want to be close to around a 450-500 grain arrow while shooting as much weight up front as I can hopefully I can work a 200g point on there.
I take it alums will respond to weight more than carbons?
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you could probably shoot a 28" 1916 with a 175-200 grain point. Total arrow weight would probably be in the neighborhood of 450-500 grains.
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Once had the same set up and 1916's were perfect
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I was using a 145 head and my arrows were 27"
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I was using a 145 head and my arrows were 27"
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With a 200 gr head, and bow NOT being center cut, AND being in the weight class you are looking for, the closest shaft you are describing is a 2016. Thats at 28", which will give a bit of hand clearance for your draw. The finished arrow will be somewhere around the 530-540 mark. With a 200 gr head 1916 will be WAY underspined for that bow, as will likely the 2013. You'd need a lighter head weight for those shafts to tune out right . You can also possibly shoot 2018's, but those are some pretty heavy arrows and would take you farther away from your 500 gr mark.
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I also have several bows close to that range and have them all set up for 29" 1916s with different point weights. Now, the last one I set up was 42# at my draw and cut 1/8" before center like yours. I ended up taking the low stretch string (with silencers) off and made a B55 string that I don't need silencers on.
I made a real good deal on 10 dozen 1916 shafts a few years ago so I try to use them on everything.
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With 10 dozen 1916 shafts to work with I would be working really hard to tune bows to the arrow...I do that all the time with string changes...I have one bow that shoots 500 spine arrows with a b50 string and 340 spine arrows with a BCY-X string braced high...for me the string is the most important factor in determining dynamic spine...D97 can be referred to as ff, BCY-X and Fury and Rhino might also be referred to as ff...they will require very different spine though
DDave
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Many who have come up in the carbon era have no idea what aluminum numbers mean and we often forget to help them with that...once you realize that the first two digits indicate the diameter of the arrow in 64ths of an inch and the second two digits indicate the wall thickness in thousandths of an inch spining starts to make a bit more sense...if you can find an Easton spine chart for aluminum, getting harder all the time as fewer shooters use aluminum, that is even better...so to clarify when we talk about a 1916 that arrow is 19/64 outside diameter with a 16 thousandths wall thickness that result in a spine of .623 regardless of material, 6061, 7075 or 7178...a 2016 is 1/64 bigger in outside diameter which bumps the spine up to something around .500 (I have never shot a 2016 so no need to know the actual spine for me)...if you find a need to thank me for that information please send me 2219 (.337 spine) Super Slam shafts, preferably the old ones with some green in the camo pattern and green Super nocks since I only have one left and that poor arrow is almost worn out...tough to bend a 2219 unless you work at it
DDave
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Easy to bend a 2013 though...I shoot 2512's and they will bend or break passing close to a tree or rock
DDave
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And I'd start on Eba... er, the big auction site. Someone (not me) is selling a bunch of new old stock shafts right now, coincidentally.
DDave, there's some 2219 xx78's there right now too...
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This is the best chart that I have found
(http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo321/SBoyd_album/image_zpsvdglsmox.jpeg) (http://s388.photobucket.com/user/SBoyd_album/media/image_zpsvdglsmox.jpeg.html)
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Thanks Archie...I miss having those great arrows
DDave
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I was thinking 1916 right off would be perfect cut at 28in with 125 points
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1916's would be a good choice except he is looking for a heavier arrow. I think I'd opt for a 2016 and a heavier point.
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I am not as concerned with point weight as I am total arrow weight, so if i have to use 175-150s up from who cares. Playing around with the arrows and seeing what works is half the fun and you guys have given me a great starting point.
If my 2013's wont shoot at all, no big deal, i bought them for footing anyway :)
I think the 2016 sound the best in theory, but we shall see.
Maybe a dumb question but for example, is there a different besides color in 1916 purple jazz arrows or the camo xx75? or are they just different production runs with different cosmetics?
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No difference , just the color .
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The 2013 and the 1916 spine about the same. The smaller 1916 diameter puts you just a hair closer to center shot than the 2013 does.
DDave. I went on a spree a few years ago and also got a couple dozen 1916 legacy shafts, plus a whole bunch of fiberglass shafts that spine in there just about like the 1916s...then I have some cedars...
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I try to stay away from thin wall aluminum arrows. Back when I shot a lot of 3D I use to beat up arrows terribly.
Just ordered 1916 Eastons for my grandson. New bow, new combination. I always plan on 145 grain tips knowing I can go up or down if I need to correct.
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Easton, 3 Rivers or Lancaster Archery have charts. The one above shows 1916 up to 175 gr tip, @ 26", possibly up to 27", but a 2016 might be better at 27" or if your going with more wt up front. I like the idea of using some used, in good or better condition to make up your own test kit.
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Originally posted by Hud:
Easton, 3 Rivers or Lancaster Archery have charts. The one above shows 1916 up to 175 gr tip, @ 26", possibly up to 27", but a 2016 might be better at 27" or if your going with more wt up front. I like the idea of using some used, in good or better condition to make up your own test kit.
good suggestion, i know a special little store north of me that sells used alums for about 3 bucks a shaft