This puzzles me a bit. The picture shows six identical arrows, except for the missing fletching of course. What can I read from this? I know that my nocking point is a bit high, but why does my fletched arrows hit a bit right(weak) and my bareshafts hit left(stiff). Shouldn't this be the other way around? Shooting has been done inside at 16 yards.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37243932/FullSizeRender.jpg)
Your shafts are stiff, that's why they are hitting left of fletched. If you are shooting right handed
Ok, thanks. These arrows are GT600 with 52gr inserts and 125gr field-points. I will try putting on a little more weight up front and see what happens.
It does not appear you are too far off. Try putting another 75 grains up front and see how they shoot.
I would be moving back to 20 or 25 yards to see what happens there before I'd do too much more with the shafts.
And adjust the nockpoint first. Then shoot and see. Always make one change at a time. Once there shooting at the same level adjust weight. If you don't have a point weight test kit I suggest you get one. Best thing I ever bought.
Added 10gr at the back of the inserts, and lowered the nockpoint. Seems to help quite a bit. The bareshafts still hit nock high, but noe they hit pretty close to where they should.
Shoot thru paper.. Its the only way to really tell..
I can get my bare shafts to fly straight but still be a tad weak or stiff... I gotta shoot thru something to be dead on.. Isn't that what we are gonna do with them anyway, "shoot thru something" ???
Paper tuning has made my arrow spinning soooo much easier..
Are you canting the bow when shooting?
QuoteOriginally posted by Trond:
Added 10gr at the back of the inserts, and lowered the nockpoint. Seems to help quite a bit. The bareshafts still hit nock high, but noe they hit pretty close to where they should.
Are you left handed?
I notice that you have a high member number...that can mean you are relatively new to trad archery or very experienced and just joined...enlighten us please
DDave
Katman: No, I am not canting the bow. At least not when I am bareshaft shooting. ;)
Caughtandhobble: Nope. I am right-handed.
Dave: Yeah, I am relatively new to trad, but have been shooting for about three years. Stumping and targets. On a good day I can nail tennisballs at 15-20 yards, but recently I have noticed that my arrows don't fly straight. One of the reasons for this I have tracked down to a high nocking point, but no matter what I do, I don't seem to able to make fletched shafts to hit the same spot as the bare ones.
Looks like you're going in the right direction... I am sorry about asking left hand question. After I put my reading glasses on I saw that you added weight to the back of the insert, I was wondering how you added weight to the back of the arrow, lol.
Your groups seems plenty arcuate enough to make adjustments based on your bare shaft grouping. Keep adding weight up front until you're happy. You are very close, if you have room you can increase your brace height a little and that will move the bare shafts closer to the fletched shafts.
When I bare shaft I like the bare shafts to show a little weak. You are definitely on the right track, sorry for confusing the matter my friend.
I can try that. Recommended brace height for my bow is around 7". Mine is set at 6,5" so I have some wiggle-room there. So an increase in brace-height will make my bare shaft hit higher? Another thing: From the spine-calculator on 3Rivers, my arrows are a tad weak, still they are showing a tad stiff. This might have something to do with the fact that I have to choose a generic R/D longbow. But with my numbers put in, I have a dynamic spine of 39.2 for the bow and 38.1 for the arrow.
Trond, my question on canting was to help interpret bare shaft results, thanks.
Calculator gets you close, not perfect, use it as a starting point.
Get nock point as good as you can, some have a hard time eliminating a little nock high, form related I think, then work on spine as mentioned. If bare shaft and fletched impact same point at 20-25 yards then your good. Sometimes it is very difficult for some to get perfectly straight bare shaft flight.
If brace is recommennded at 7" why is it at 6.5"?
Katman: I set it to 6.5" at some point. Felt that the bow was better to shoot with low brace. But my form is much better now, than it was when I did that, so when I get off work today, I will crank that brace up to 7" and do some shooting. Have to mention that I have Catwhiskers on the string and a Mini-Boa 4 arrow quiver mounted on the bow.
You guys are just awesome, you know that!
Sounds good, bowyers recommend brace heights for a reason. Keep us informed.
Now I remeber why I set brace at 6,5". Raised it back to 7" and my arrows start hitting the shelf. Bare shafts are now hitting right where I look, but fletched are showing way to stiff hitting 5" left. Perhaps I now will have to move the nock point up again?
Just a little update.
Brace at precise 7", and nock point raised a bit. New Velcro on the shelf, and out to shoot. Voila! Bareshafts and fletched smack together. Tuning is fun when thing work, right. Arrow recommendation from Bearpaw is actually 800 spine with 75gr point, but in 3Rivers calculator the difference in dynamic spine between that and the GT's I shoot isn't that much.
Glad you got it worked out, have fun.
https://youtu.be/7rP8Xantd3Q
Link to Ashby presentation about building and tuning an efoc arrow but his explanation on bare shaft tuning an arrow helped me a ton.
I bought a new set of arrows and stated from scratch after watching that pres.
Tuffhead website has about same article on bares hat tuning under "educational" links.
Good luck!
J