I ordered my first doz. of Doug Fur shafts and was curious what others use to prep the shafts. I've seen that archery websites sell arrow stain and lacquer, but does anyone use products from the hardware store instead? If so, what do you use? I'm particularly interested in the techniques you all use to seal the shafts. Do you use a paint brush to coat on the lacquer or do you use a wipe on rag...?
I'm interested in trying to make my own arrows as well looking forward to others replies
I just recently started making my own arrows and I'm no expert so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I lightly sand my arrow shafts down with 000 steel wool. Then I use minwax stain then use steel wool again. Then use min wax poly to seal them. Three coats using the steel wool between each. Fletch then shoot!
Again I'm no expert and I'm open to advice! But I sure love making arrows!
Michael,
Thanks! How do you apply the Min Wax poly to the shafts? Dip, wipe on...?
Minwax stain & dipped O.B. poly
I've done quite a few.
I use an alcohol based stain (water is fine too)I just happened to buy alcohol.
After a light sanding, I apply stain with a rag or with a foam brush.(They get darker with the foam brush)
I let them dry for a couple of days and give it a light sand with steel wool again.
Wipe them off with a clean rag and start the first coat of sealant.
My favorite is polycrylic.
I dip them in a pvc pipe and hang them to drip until dry. (I like to reduce the poly with water)This helps it run faster down the shaft.
I apply 5 coats with a light sanding with steelwool in between coats.
If cresting, I do 4 coats, then crest, then apply the last coat of poly over the cresting. It lasts longer. Just make sure you let the cresting dry at least overnight to avoid any trouble.
Thats how I like to do it.
I've done them with gasket laquer too.
On that one you do need the dipping tube with the rubber squeegee-like cap.
These dry fast.
I would do 3 coats, one arrow after the other for the whole dozen until done. Let it dry overnight, crest, let the cresting dry for a day, and apply the last coat.
You will learn the hard way if you don't let that cresting dry completely. I promise.
Thanks, guys!
Manuel,
Can you post a picture of your pvc dip tube or describe the length and circumference?
I use mostly Minwax stains that I apply with a rag. I've also used Watco oil to stain and add weight to cedar shafts. Works pretty good as a sealer as well if 4-5 coats are applied with plenty of time to dry in-between.
I have normally used Bohning clear blue lacquer in a dip tube to seal, 2 coats. The fumes from the lacquer are beginning to get to me though so I'm looking for a different sealer.
I have used minwax polycrylic, a water based, low smell finish that I've wiped on. I expect it would also work dipped. Just haven't tried it that way yet.
Guys,
I am preparing to start building my own wood arrows, as well.
I found this in the "How-To Resources" section on the forum home page. There is a lot of information that you all clearly know, as you are well ahead of me in the learning process, but there are several Q & A segments where the information you are looking for is discussed. You can scroll through the pages pretty quickly, to easily find the areas of interest.
I hope it helps you as much as it did me.
Minwax stain and minwax poly 3 coats with steel wool rubbing in between each coat,I apply both with a small foam brush,never had any issues doing it this way.
Up until this year been a using Bohning Laq. for cap dip. For rest of shaft min wax stain and dip whole shaft in GL. BUT had issues with GL. So I went with Min Wax polycrillic, water based. I also am trying to get away from Fletch Laq fumes.
Got a doz. shafts I am going to try Tru North water based paint on. I would like to go water based all the way, easy clean up and low fumes, smell.
I too use Minwax stain and water based sealer. I use a sponge brush to apply both.
Good luck with making your wood arrows.
Longbow fanatic,
I just wipe mine on on with a cloth. I also think Rob Distifano did a great tutorial on here as well.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000119;p=1
Min wax stain from Walmart and then gloss wipe on poly. All applied with a piece of an old shirt and steel wool between coats.
Minwax stain and wipe on poly for me as well.
I use pretty much all water based products. The only exception is sometimes I do the initial sealing with zinser shellac. My steps are as below
1. If they are getting stain it goes on first. Always water based. Next, Seal with shellac or minwax wipe on water based poly. If sealed with shellac it's three coats rubbed with 0000 steel wool between. Then three coats of poly rubbed also with 0000. If I don't use the shellac, they get four coats of poly. It's all wiped on with paper towels. Disposable and cheap!!
2. Next the crown section is taped off with masking tape and the crown wiped on with paper towels using water based acrylic paint from Hobby lobby or Wally's (99¢ to 1.69¢ with huge color selection). One or two coats depending on coverage. Then the cresting with the same type of paint.
3. Next, two or three more coats of clear poly over the entire shaft each rubbed with 0000.
4. Ready to Fletch! I use mostly full length feathers, Duco and a burner. Using water based has allowed me to do this at the kitchen table with no complaints from the spouse.... Except feather burning!
I like economy and easy clean up.
Here's a few ready to Fletch.
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/Archery/Arrows/20150120shafts_zpsdcgsxohx.jpg)
And after fletching.
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/Archery/Arrows/IMG_20160221_142959455_zpscpqp2v76_edit_1456109626957_zps04jpsat6.jpg)
I use ware based stains and aneline dyes, they both work well. The aneline dyes powder is harmful so use caution. I've made hundreds of shafts from the Surewood boys! I think the aneline works better and better color options, I get all of them from Woodcraft. Two bottles will last longer than you, I have four- ha!
I buy nuts, bolts and grills from the hardware store.
I'm still old school and use Fletch Lac,I like leather dye the most and never had a problem with lacquer I also usually just buy those "old" touch up automotive can paint that's lacquer based as cresting paint,I'll spray some in the can lid already thinned an ready for cresting.
Another for minwax stain and wipe on poly. I use a cheap foam brush for the stain and cotton tshirt material to wipe on poly. I actually do 5 coats of poly just because I like the high gloss look. I have some with only 3 coats though that have held up for years. Lightly sand with 0000 steel wool and then wipe down with 91% isopropyl alcohol between coats. It says to allow 3-4 hours dry time, usually it's more like 6-8 and sometimes 12 plus depending on humidity. You can tell it's time when they're no longer tacky. Definitely recommend Rob's tutorial referenced above! One last thought... don't immediately throw out the used foam brush. Take the foam off and it makes an excellent stir stick for the stain next time.
Cory, I've found the same thing with the wipe on poly. On a hot day with low humidity it can dry in an hour. Cold and rainy (like today
first ill stain with minwax water base stain lightly sand, then I dip seal them with ProFin, 2-3 coats with a squeegee lid, crest, and then 2 more coats of ProFin, the last two coats I don't use the squeegee on, just dip, and let it run off.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Timroberts_bucket/image_zpsukao2qjj.jpeg) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Timroberts_bucket/media/image_zpsukao2qjj.jpeg.html)
Thanks,
Currently; I wipe on leather dye, then seal with 3 coats of Krylon clear from a rattle can (rubbing with steel wool between coats).
Leather dye and Minwax stains followed by multiple coats of wiped on Tru-oil gunstock finish, 3 or four coats before I crest and a couple more after cresting.
Any stain will work ,for a clear coat I use Zarr satin poly it is an exterior coating and marine finish, very durable and with 2 coats dipped the finish is like glass, it dry's in 2 hours I didn't shoot mine for 24 hours though .I tried minn wax water based poly and left my arrows in the target over night, it rained and the shafts turned white they dried out clear but that doesn't seem to water proof, they need to be sealed or they will be crooked.
I keep it as simple as possible. Lately I've been using a mineral-spirits based penetrating sealer on my yellow poplar shafts, after which I crest, then spray on two clear coats of acrylic. I fletch with superglue. I don't do crown dips because I don't want the added weight in the shaftmond.
For staining, I almost always use aniline dyes. For sealing, I've used just about everything under the sun at one time or another; spar urethane, spar varnish, gasket lacquer, the Massey finish, Daly's ProFin, polyurethane, etc. I probably like Daly's ProFin the best but it costs a small fortune to ship it to my house so lately I've been using polyurethane. I like to dip my shafts and will do six or seven coats with at least 12 hours drying time in between and a sanding with steel wool.
Darren
Minwax stain for me......then cheap spray lacquer from ACE hardware. Seems to work ok. Arrows get 3 coats of spray, with light steel wool in between.
My last dozen were done with Minwax stains and poly.
I use Rit dye, mixing my own colors. There are a ton of color recipes available to achieve vast amounts of about any colors you can imagine. I like the powder form, and I mix it with 90% alcohol. I wipe the stain on with black foam applicators with handles. Very cheap. I do no sanding, as I use gasket laquer, and I want the wood fibers raised in order to catch ahold of the laquer better. I like using the big dipper and wiping gaskets from 3 rivers. Makes nice arrows, quickly.
I like to do all in one and use oil based tractor enamel paint. Otherwise I like them unstained
I crushed enough black walnut hulls to fill a half gallon jug half full. I then filled the jug with distilled water. I let the water and hulls sit for a few months, shaking the jug vigorously for a few minutes two or three times a week. I then filtered the liquid using coffee filters and a deep funnel.
I wiped on stain with a clean cotton rag. I took two to three coats of stain to get the color I wanted. I used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and a foam brush to seal the arrows, 3 to 4 coats, sanding lightly between coats with 0000 steel wool. Very happy with the color and finish.
I found a few different references on the internet describing making stain from black walnut hulls.
Has anyone tried the Armorall/tru-oil finish for their arrows? Was wondering if it was flexible.
One thing to consider: Polyurethane tends to stick in 3D targets, making pulling the arrows difficult.
A buddy of mine modified the Jay Massey epoxy finish he used on bows to work on arrows. Works great. Fast, cheap, easy, super durable.
Minwax oil and water based stains and minwax oil and water base poly. I also used Tru oil.
I have used most of the finished mentioned and settled on Daley's Pro Fin for the finish.
Don't want to hijack this thread, but what type of glue do you use with your finish to put on your feathers? I am only interested in glue, not fetch tape.
Walt, I have been a steady user of Bohning Fletch-Tite glue for years...even the latest Platinum version...and it has given me zero problems. My last dozen shafts I was gluing feathers over a True North (finish) crown dip with Platinum. Those same arrows went to Alaska with me last year and...well...I think you know what kind of horrible conditions I endured. Every last arrow came home and not a single feather has moved. Platinum is still gold for me, lol.
That said, I just tried Duco for the first time a few days ago. I was just gluing feathers on some completely raw shafts for test shooting. I fletched a dozen raw firs and so far everything is tight. I still have to go with what has worked 100% for me over the years and that's been Bohning Fletch-Tite.
And since I'm here: I have finally made the switch from Bohning lacquers (because of the volatile vapor) to True North finishes. I follow their instructions exactly and not a single problem. For stains I think most anything can work as long as it has dried well and the shaft receives a light steel wool rub with 4-0.
Thanks Kevin,
I always used Bohning Fletch Tite/Platinum until I changed to Pro Fin for the finish, then I went to Duco. The last quart of my gallon of Pro Fin went bad so I built two dozen arrows using Watco. I am unable to find anything other than super glue that will adhere to it, then only sometimes. Don't want to take any chances with the Alaskan weather this fall, all 24 arrows will require a mid-evil type thread wrap starting at the front, through the entire length of the feather, and the back end.
Duco is not available anywhere around here so I am looking for a finish compatible with Bohning Platinum that is not water based.
I use superglue to fletch, and with some finishes I have to wait a little longer for it to set. So far it has worked on everything I've used it with, but GL requires a longer cure time or the fletching may come off. Works great with polyurethane, same chemistry.
I seal with clear fletchlaq or Profin poly. The Bohning product dries faster and I can recoat sooner.Both are thin and require very little thinning to maintain that viscosity. Both give a super smooth and durable coat. I use minwax stains both as they come from the factory or mixed to acheive different colors. I also use Cabots for a different look. Sometimes I air brush the stain on to get the efffect I want. This requires a straining so no goobers are present in the stain to screw up the whole process. Once air brushed on I some times take a dry natural bristle brush to even further blend the fading of the stain onto a natural area of the shafting. Favorite colors are Red mahogany, mahogany, dark wlanut, walnut and red oak in the minwax stains. Cabots I like bark brown and a red that I am forgetting the name of right now.(could be a tile red) Oh and Cabots I use solid body stains and thin them.
Has anyone else noticed that the Minwax penetrating stain is no longer labeled as a sealer? I wonder if the formulation was changed. It seems the same in use.
Alcohol based stain and gasket lacquer from 3 Rivers.
Min-Wax stain/sealer with 2 or 3 coats of lacquer. Cap, crest, then a couple coats of Min-Wax polycrylic to protect the paint from smearing.
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l502/MrDwood/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/20160217_140153_zpsyrkfq1qd.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/MrDwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/20160217_140153_zpsyrkfq1qd.jpg.html)
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l502/MrDwood/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/20150128_182119_zpsbkybjp2t.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/MrDwood/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/20150128_182119_zpsbkybjp2t.jpg.html)
I've always used Duco with Profin & MW OB poly, never tried fletch-tite. Pretty much have to buy Duco online these days, no one has it in the stores. I think Saunders NPV will stick to about anything too.
Tip for keeping your poly from goin bad...take a propane torch and blow some gas into the can, it will settle to the bottom and force out the air...close up quick.
I use min wax stain, wiped on with a foam brush. If you are going to cap dip with paint do not stain. The stain will seep through the paint.
I use oil base stains, mostly because the dyes don't show the grain nearly as well. For the sealing coats, I much prefer oil base polyurethane to water borne. Oil base gloss put on in thin coats gives the toughest and most water resistant finish. Daly Profin is very good, but not available in the midwest.
And yet another way. I cap dipped my shafts. Then applied pure Tung oil on rest of shaft. A few coats of that with a rubbing between has made some real smooth shafts. I used car wax over that. I am trying to keep junk from targets sticking to shafts without carrying around soap bars, Armor oil, etc.