a friend of mine just bought a lefty 68 kodiak hunter. he has been shooting a mid 70's grizzly with very consistant results. with the griz all shots are center with a few slight misses here and there but nothing too dramatic. now the problem. with the kodiak he is consistantly hitting to the right by about 6-8 inches! the griz is 48#s and the kodiak is pulling 40. we tried all different arrow set ups and found quite a few that flew very straight but no matter the arrow the kodiak still hit right- never center. the only thing i can think of is the handle/grip is so different compared to the griz.
any ideas or advice will be GREATLY appreciated.
thanks guys.
shooting to the right with a left-handed bow, the first thing I would try would be lighter spine or heavier points.
tried both, lighter spine and 125, 145, 175, and 200gr heads. no difference at all. we will keep trying some other combos as well.
thanks
I suggest you send it to me and in a few years I can figure out the issues for you !
Have you tried bare shaft tuning with it yet ? Watch how those arrows react and see if it helps decide what to do. I am gonna go out on a limb and guess you need to go lighter on spine, maybe a bunch. Achieve that by adding length and weight up front or just starting with lighter spined arrows.
I have two bows, almost the same draw weight, one shoots .300 spine Bemans (it will shoot .340 spine if I use only 125 to 145 grains up front, I typically use more so those are out) the other shoots .500 spine Bemans bare shaft.
ChuckC
i have been thinking the same as everybody... must be the spine. we tried gt 35/55's in different lengths and tip weights, so now maybe we should try 15/35's. start full length and go from there.
and yes we bare shafted and arrows flew well , just stayed right.
thanks
definitely try the 1535s and leave them long initially. I like 30" 1535s with 175 up front out of my 38 - 44# bows.
have you checked your nock height? I have had arrows that I KNOW are weak tune stiff because the nocking point was too low!
nock height was adjusted and seems correct
how does it "seem correct"?
what type of testing was done to verify it being correct?
we did not go through paper yet, but could visually watch the arrow and saw improvements with different nock heights and different arrow set ups.
the first stage was setting the bow up as well as two fairly knowledgable shooters could : new bear hair shelf, strike plate, string, beaverballs, nock adjustment untill no visable porpoising, found a sweetspot at 8" for the brace.
then : different arrow combos- the best being 33/55 cut to 30" with 175 up front ( these were fletched) index feather in and 3 five inch shield cuts with left wing helical ( which i understand really doesn't matter for flight).
these still visually flew straight, stuck in straight and were still about 5-6 inches right of center.
all shooting was done at just over 10yds.
try this... whatever your strike plate material is, make it WAY thicker. Like 1/8" thicker and see if that makes your arrows move to the left any. Those arrows should definitely shoot through that bow. I have a 30" draw and I shoot those arrows in my bows about the same weight as that.
Easiest fix would be to shove some tooth pick or skewer behind the strike plate and just see if that makes a difference. I would also try to put your feathers at 12, 4, 8 instead of 3, 7, 11.
do you know how high your nock height actually is?
good idea- we'll move the plate out and give that a shot. should have thought of that but that's why i posted here- lots of guys with sound advice.
nock was just below 1/8" using a square and general " eyeing" it up.
before you move your strike plate out, just for giggles, put the nocking point to 1/2". I would almost guarantee that 1/8" is way too low. i'd bet that 1/2 will solve some problems
Try shooting your cock feather in. Just an idea but some bows digest arrows better that way.
hitting the range soon- reports to follow
One variable that comes to mind is the actual draw weight of the Hunter at his draw length...I agree with those that say you are still quite a bit too stiff with the arrow setups you have tried so far...arrows that "shoot well" bareshaft hit in line, not to the right or left...and in general I prefer a nocking point that is too high to one that is too low
DDave
couldn't shoot today but the plan is to try all of the suggestions tomorrow eve followed by grilling marinated venison steaks at our local archery range.
i'll let you guys know how it goes soon.
That sounds like a great plan...one other suggestion is to start with the very softest dynamic spine you can come up with, hopefully soft enough to get the arrows to shoot to the left...that way you have the correct spine bracketed...then simply increase the dynamic spine by either shortening the shaft a bit at a time or decrease point weight remembering that with carbon shafts length trumps point weight every time
DDave
I agree 1/8th inch seems low, 3/8th to 1/2 should be in the ball park.
so here is most likely the final verdict; the stlye of grip on the k hunter is not right for my friends prefered grip. we tried EVERY tip given and then some , and still could not substantialy change the point of impact. the most improvement came from:
nock point-5/8 inch up.
ce heritage 600's cut to 30 1/2 "
200gr head
strike plate built out so far the arrow barely laid on the rest!
still grouping 4-5 inches from center.
maybe it's the bow - maybe it's the loose nut behind the bow -but he's decided it's not the bow for him.- keep your eyes out boys this bow may be a st. judes item.
thanks for all the advice-much appreciated.