Recently , I had a person that I know put a arrow into hand. Sorry no pictures . What had happened was the arrow slipped off the arrow shelf and into the hand. I personally like my arrows a good 0ne to two inches from my hand. I do this to insure that my arrow , and broadhead don't make contact with my hand.
What do you prefer? I do know that some like short arrows for many different reasons. Please leave info. Thank you all for your thoughts.
I prefer a longer arrow. I shoot 30" arrows for my 26" draw. I shoot mostly selfbows and I think the longer arrows get around the bow better plus I like the extra physical weight.
Normally, I shoot longer arrows. I know that many people don't like much sticking out past the riser, but I shoot for me and not them.
To answer your question; my length is wherever they fly the best.
I cut all my arrows one inch longer than my draw, plus point, and tune with point, adaptor and insert weight and or side plate adjustments.
I like my arrows to be no longer than they have to be for a number of reasons. One, with my arrows in a bow quiver, the nocks don't stick into the dirt when I lean my bow against a tree. Two, it takes less movement removing an arrow from the bow quiver and putting it on the string. Three, since the arrows are shorter, the arch they make when the bow is moved is smaller, i.e., just less movement for critters to pick up on. Four. I'd rather have the extra weight up front with heavier point weight for more FOC vis-a-vis greater weight due to a longer shaft. Five, longer shaft length itself reduces FOC. Not talking big differences here, but every little bit counts. If I thought on it a bit, could probably come up with a few more reasons.
On the other hand, if I were a gap shooter, I'd want my arrows to be as long as possible. Lots of reasons to do either and either works.
I slid a Snuffer across my index finger when I overdrew a little with arrows cut to draw length. Luckily, it was an old practice head that had been shot into the dirt a lot-no damage to the finger, can't say the same for my shorts!!! I usually cut my arrows 1" longer than my draw.
I shoot full length 2216's which are 34" long. I like the long arrows for gap shooting and keeping my point on distance around 25 yards.
I cut mine 2" longer than my draw just to be sure that even if I overdrew a little that I would still be safe.
Used to shoot 'em about 29.5 for my 28 draw. But to get more FOC, I picked up some stiffer shafts than recommended for my draw so that I could put more up front weight to get, in some cases, EFOC. Right now I'm shooting GT blems (Big Jim's) at full length 31" with a 200 gr field pt. and they're great out of my 45 lb. bows. I never shot any so short I'd have to worry about cutting my finger with a broadhead. Who does that?
I like to be a couple of inches longer than my draw.
Arrow saws are the devils's handiwork! My life has gotten so much simpler since I, choose spine accordingly, leave everything full length, tune with point weight. Cutting is a last resort. Nobody asks why my forehead is always bruised anymore. I thought I'd hate excess arrow length, but along with high nock sets and crawls it's just another tool to reduce PO. Just turn the saw off and back away from it slowly....now breathe deeply, life is good!
I've found that I'm more accurate if I leave them as long as possible. Some really good archers I know leave them full length and do everything they can to get their "Point on" around 25 yards or less if possible.
all my arrows are 29"s bop....my draw length is 27.5 to 28 depending on the bow.
lots of better ways to get more weight than 3 inches of arrows shafts that don't weight squat
most of the picks of guys with inches of arrows hanging of the end of their shelf don't have proper alignment ....meaning their elbow is pointing at 4-5 o'clock instead of 6....
or it could be some sort of aiming system for some
Remember, when you buy commercial wood shafts they are spined for a 28" arrow with a 125gr point. For each inch over that 28" you can subtract 5# per inch for the effective spine and for each 5grs of tip weight added you decrease the effective spine by 1#. The reverse takes place for shortening the shaft or subtraction tip weight.
I like long arrows, too. I draw 25"and shoot 29" arrows.
I use xx75 2219 full length, and then when the buddies have our little flight shooting contests I have 34" of draw!
Jon I never thought about length effecting accuracy! I've been shooting shafts cut to 30.5" and draw 28.5" but used to cut them shorter until I had one get me with a judo
I draw about 28-3/4 and cut mine to 29", I'll go 30" if they are really heavy shafts so I can go lighter point.
1/2" longer than draw. I never could figure out how to do it with carbons but with woods it came easy to me. My draw on my Hill is 26" so my arrows are 26 1/2" BOP. With a back quiver its an advantage. I control the arrows from draw to nocking by the nock, like Shulz shows in his videos. My fingers only contact the nock through the entire process. To do so with longer arrows would be additionaly difficult due to the shoulder mobility required. But... all this is just me.
I like the length that tunes the best, but strive to get to happen with about 1" past the back of the bow.
Bisch
My arrows are either net of the lead corner of the point to the index finger or bop tagging the index finger.
1-1.5" longer than my 26" draw.
Point on shooter. I like them long.
I like them as long as they hit where I am aiming. When they decide to stop going where they are supposed to, I don't like them so much.
To answer the question, no more than an inch longer than my draw.
I shoot 29.5 inch aluminum, my draw is 27. I like to shoot a heavier 2016 from a 46 pound bow and I'm a gap shooter so the extra length works to both weaken the spine and keeps my gaps narrower.
I guess I'm the odd ball my draw is 29" and my BOP is the same....
QuoteOriginally posted by jonsimoneau:
I've found that I'm more accurate if I leave them as long as possible. Some really good archers I know leave them full length and do everything they can to get their "Point on" around 25 yards or less if possible.
Well I'm certainly not a really good archer but what you described is why I leave them long. :biglaugh:
I shot with another traditional shooter at a 3D shoot a couple of years ago. He was telling me how he had only found a couple of types of arrows that he could shoot because he needed so much length. The variety of shaft he had found had an outsert to add the extra inch to full length shafts. I can remember watching him shoot, coming to Full Draw ? with 5 to 6 inches of arrow projecting past the end of his riser. :dunno: Maybe there was a method to the madness after all.
I think the old easton arrow charts recommended the extra inch and that is what I have gone with.
I draw 29.5" with my recurves and 29ish with a longbow, my arrows are 30.5" to back of point.
I match up well with Terry Green. 29" bop with a 27.5 to 28" draw. :campfire:
I shoot arrows 1" BOP longer than my 28" draw weight.Just my preference.
I like my arrows as long as I don't lose them or break them. ;)
Seriously, I prefer arrows in the 28-29" range for wood. Carbon I like 30". I draw 27ish, depending on bow style.
Like others on here I like them as long as they shoot well. Other than that I like mine at about 27.5- 28". I don't want any more arrow over hang than is necessary. Broadheads are a different matter, don't want to cut myself, they are generally about .5" longer.
Shoot 28.5 for a 26-inch draw.
Lot different than many years ago when we shot skinny aluminum target arrows with nibs. They were cut much shorter so the tip was at most an inch past the rest so the tips could be seen for those long targets. Now, everybody just shoots short targets so the long arrows work fine.
I love them until they break up with me!
:biglaugh:
I always got grief from my friends for cutting my arrows at 28" with my 26" draw. For some reason it bothered them but I realized with the longer arrow the spine wasn't as critical as when the arrow was cut to 26".
Usually I go with 31 inch shafts for my setups...no matter if recurve with 29.5 draw or longbow/selfbow with 28 inch draw. I like the consistent size...
Miles, I'm wih you, I draw 29" with a recurve & like my arrows 30-30-1/2"! I don't like my broadheads too near my tender easy to cut hands! :confused:
30.5" with 27.5" draw, carbons. I use the arrow for gapping. Doesn't make me a bad person. ;)
i use at least an inch past the front of the riser to the back of the point.
I've been shooting a bow since I was 8 years old and now I'm 51 I don't understand this finger cutting stuff I've never cut my finger with a broad head while shooting a bow can someone please explain how this happens because over 40 years of shooting a bow it's never happened to me
Some broadheads have the back edges sharpened. (I thing Magnus Stingers are like that). Some hunters, in a rushed shot, or excitement, might overdraw and those sharp back edges can nick you if aligned vertically.
Fred Bear used his as a draw checker. Of course the Bear Razorheads were not sharpened on the back edges.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=106256
I can see it happening shooting off of a low or modified shelf with the hand very near the arrow and the broadhead is drawn up to the back of the bow and you extend your bowhand fingers in a relaxed grip like some like to do.
I've never done it myself either.
QuoteOriginally posted by reddogge:
I can see it happening shooting off of a low or modified shelf with the hand very near the arrow and the broadhead is drawn up to the back of the bow and you extend your bowhand fingers in a relaxed grip like some like to do.
I've never done it myself either.
Orrrrr if you draw on a nice deer, get excited & overdraw just a bit?
It hasn't happened to me, but "murphy" lurks everwhere? I have overdrawn with field points, & it wasn't fun. :eek:
The most important thing I found is having an arrow that flies correctly when bareshafting. That tends to be what dictates the length of my arrow, the tuning with the weight I want upfront. I draw 29, and as luck would have it whats working for me right now is a 32 inch arrow, which shoot perfect out of both my bows, a 57lb whip, and a 75lb border archery falcon.
I work on the principle that if it isnt broken, dont try to fix it.
I cut my finger once. it was as described, a broadhead sharpened on the back edge.
My arrow length and draw length also match Terry & Bill's. Don't like 'em any longer, but sometimes go as short as 28" BOP.
My 3D arrows are longer in order to keep my same point-on and window within my much heavier setup effective hunting range.
My primary focus is hunting and maintaining the same site window within my effective hunting range permits me to naturally focus on the gifted hunting shot opportunity to be taken.
Yep, cut my index finger a little bit drawing with a single bevel bhead with the sharpen back end, I drew to far back. Now I dull the back end of the single bevels.
I use wood arrows and cut them so my BH touches my index finger at full draw. I use that as a draw check and it triggers my release. I cut my blunts to my draw length exactly at 28 inches.
Shorter wood arrows recover from paradox faster than longer woods arrows, making them more stable in flight.
They end up being well balanced with a normal 125 or 145 grain head and picking the proper spine is a snap.
What ever tunes best. My current arrows are 1 1/2" longer than my DL.
Who carries the longest full cut carbon arrows?
My broadhead arrows are usually an inch or inch and a half longer than my draw, allowing for gloves in winter. I've never cut myself, but if the broadhead touches my finger it is a distraction I don't want when making a shot.
Ok but I find that any overly long arrow is more forgiving and straightens out paradox whereas a shorter arrow would fly straight but to the left of what I am shooting at. So I compromise by taking a 1/2" off a 28" bop arrow add ten grains to the point weight ( 135 gr) . This is done to make arrow extraction easier from my back quiver. Wish I could cut back to 27 or even gasp ...a 26 1/2" . That would be a disaster for me as the arrows nock left as I stated earlier .
So is it true that adding point weight to a shorter arrow help it to fly more to the center??
I forgot to say that my draw length is 26".
I forgot to say that my draw length is 26".
27" draw and arrows 30" for my ASL's.
26 inch draw, i dont really like my arrows overs 29 inches
I like mine 29", i am 28"draw.
arrow 32", draw 31".
31" BOP arrows and drawing 29" for me...
I have a 28" draw. Cut arrows. 29 1/2 BOP and never had a problem
I draw 27.5 and cut my arrows at 30.5
I seem to do best with arrows 29"BOP for my 28" draw. 28.5" works too.
Tried the back edge of the broadhead touching my finger at full draw, but found it messes me up more than it helps.
I'm with Reddogge. 29.5 length and I draw 27. I also use the extra length because I'm a gapper.
28.5" 2016's for 26" draw. It's what I had available and shoot bullet holes through paper. Going with clean flight and add'l weight over looks without having to mess with other options.
as long as I can keep 'em for my 26.5 draw. Usually 31 inches BOP. Makes gappin easier for me.
I draw 27" and cut mine to 29". All it takes is one time to overdraw a broadhead and you will no longer cut them too close. A 2" minimum gives me peace of mind.