Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: jono446 on April 10, 2016, 05:14:00 PM
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Hey guys I had a question. I had an old timer tell me to round off the tips of my broadheads for shooting traditional. He said it wouldn't stick in bone and curl as bad. How many of you do this and does it actually work? Thanks a lot for the help everyone!
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I do "round" the tips of my 3 blades. Gets rid of the needle point
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I think that's much the same as "pyramiding" the tip. Anything that makes the point steeper will help prevent curling of a "needle point.
I would think rounding might prevent sticking in bone and as long as the rounded point is still ground to a razor sharp edge, it will cut nearly as well.
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I saw an episode of Ted Nugent's show once where he said he learned that same trick from Fred Bear. Dr. Ashby says that a tanto point is best for penetration, so maybe there is something to it? The only time I have done it, it was after I had curled the tip on a Zwickey & a Magnus by hitting a rock, so it was more of a repair than a re-shaping. Curious to see other's responses, too.
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The first buck I shot, the Eskimo's tip curled because it was a needle point. Bear razorheads had a semi-tanto tip so I started doing all 2 blades that way... end of problem !
3 blades get a bit rounded/pyramid kind of thing. Great penetration with those too with no damage.
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what kenny said !!!
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Always turn mine into small tanto points.
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I seem to recall statements "back in the day" that this should be done.
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That concept has been around at least since the 70's. I don't know about rounding them, although I don't think that hurts, but getting rid of the skinny point will go a long way toward strengthening the tip. Once the bend starts, it tends to keep going. If you can keep it from starting in the first place, you are better off.
ChuckC
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My dad was on Bears advisory staff for a couple of years and at one of the meetings in Grayling, Bear brought in a bone specialist to discuss that very question. The specialist said that a rounded point would do more damage to a bone that a sharp point ( in a nutshell). I think you will notice that the Bear heads have a chisel point on them now. That meeting was in the 60's.
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I read in a Trad archery book last night to round points.
Are there any tutorials out there to round or tanto a 3 blade head?
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The concept is pretty much taking away sharp pointy ends that will more easily bend ( again, once a bend starts, it will tend to keep on going). I myself really doubt that "rounding" makes it roll around bone, but it does strenghten the head.
Charlie, If you use a flat stone or file to sharpen, drag the head backwards on it and while in the process lift the fat / back end a bit as you go. Just get rid of that skinny pointy end.
ChuckC
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I use a stationary belt sander to change the angle of the point on my three blades. I am sure a file would work just as well. I just lift the arrow up to change the angle.
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I don't understand why so many folks make pointed heads, if you have to reshape them before using them???? Why don't the mfgrs just make them "right" to start with. I shoot GK and Magnus Stingers, and just screw them on and hunt!
Bisch
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http://tbwpodcast.com/video-45-changing-broadhead-points-to-tanto-or-round/
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Yep, tango tip is the way to go.
(http://i44.tinypic.com/20acjlx.jpg)
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Years ago,I chisel pointed some,like Fred Bear used to.The problem with a chisel or round point,is that you can no longer check tip alignment on an alignment jig or by spinning on the tip.This is important to me,not only when installing the head but I think it is also important to check tip alignment after any shot in the field.
For that reason,I would no longer chisel or round off a point.These days,I would tanto the point,if I weren't using heads that already had one.This tip is strong but also has a point so it can be spun.
To do a tanto,I first check tip alignment on a jig.Then I scribe a center line,off the existing point.Now,when I file in the tanto,the centerline keeps my new point in line.
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I round mine, to do so I rock the tip of the broadhead back and forth as I move the head left to right across my stone. It makes a very shallow "U" shape on the stone and sharpens the rounded point all the way around the tip. So the whole head has a sharp edge not just the sides, and I've never had a tip curl.
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I have pyramided many tips and have rounded off mant tips slightly and I mean slightly Alas tanto tips do not penetrate as well physics will tell you that a cue ball will not penetrate as well as a needle however you want a durable Broadhead.
As reported in studies Tanto tips create a tenting effect before they penetrate the skin So if you plan on tantoing a tip you need to make sure it's Sharp but it will not penetrate as well through regular body mass of an animal
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I round my Deltas
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Thanks Jason
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I do believe the tanto tips do what they claim. However since 95% of the game I hunt is deer and turkey with an occasional hog now and then I have never really had to oppurtunity to test the therory. I had used ACE 160 Standards for years with a very sharp and pointed tip and never lost an animal due to the point sticking in bone. However the last 4 years I have started using the Grizzly 160's not so much for the tanto tip but really like the cutting action of the single bevel heads.
However I am sure if I hunted bigger game I would be more concerned about not sticking in bone.
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I've rounded (and sharpened) the tips on my Zwickey's and STOS two-bade heads for years. Also knock the needle point off my Wensel Wodsmans. Doesn't take much in either case. Just a little strengthens the point and keeps it from turning over on bone hits. I don't like the tanto points on most single bevel heads. Concept is fine, they're often just too large.
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I completely curled the tip of a Zwickey Delta when I hit a VERY large bull elk in his scapula from 18 yards with my long bow. My arrow ricocheted almost all of the way back to me. After that I filed chisel tips on my Zwickey's and have since changed to a single bevel with tanto tip Cutthroat broadhead.