Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Pursuit on April 10, 2016, 05:00:00 PM
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Hello everyone. I am shooting a Bear Ausable at 50# at 28 inches. I am using the whole 28 inches. I have shot points ranging from 125 to 225 and have used Carbon Epress 150, 250, and just yesterday 90 shafts. I have gotten bare shafts to hit with my feathered arrows, but no matter what point or shaft I always get a nock left bare shaft and not just a little!! I have gotten some good ideas from people, but as many ideas as I can get would be great. Thanks everyone.
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Bare shafts show form/execution errors MORE than tuning problems. How long have you been shooting and how is your execution??
Arne
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I would leave the 150's full length and play with tip weight with a fletched arrow. Left full length I would think around 150 or 175 grain would work out of that bow. With the 90's you should be able to cut them down some if you wanted and get them to work. Really concentrate on your release and watch the arrow flight that you are getting.
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I would really consider Arne's questions. False readings, torguing the bow, etc. can really screw up trying to get the right spine.
Speaking from experience here. My shooting was really screwed up before I figured it out. I love the phrase "form trumps all".
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I think the question is, is it FLYING nock left?
If not, it could be that the target material affecting the orientation at impact. If it is, then I would do as Arne suggests and really scrutinize my form/execution.
Personally, when I first started shooting trad, it took me quite a while before I realized that my form wasn't good enough to do any effective tuning. And it seems that that is quite a wide range of combinations for the result to be the same, unless it IS a form issue.
Just my $0.02.
Also, it would be helpful to the tuning gurus to state whether you are right or left handed.
Good luck, and I hope you get it figured out.
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1. I trust what Moebow says.
2. Tuning by arrow flight/nock right, left, high low, always gave we issues since form and release and other issues can cause false readings. I would try bare shaft tuning and always end up with arrows a little stiff when fletched.
3. After talking with Rod Jenkins and watching Diamondback Archery video on YouTube I believe Group tuning is the way to go. It's all about impact point of fletched and non-fletched arrows in relation to each other impact, not how bare shafts only end up.
Good luck!
Just my opinion after my own frustration.
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Thanks everyone. I have been shooting for about 1 year now. I know my form probably is not what it should be sometimes. I am a little of a perfectionist when it comes to archery and it kills me to not get the bare shafts flying straight. Fletched 150s fly fairly well for me, but I just can't resist shooting the bare shafts.
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Tben work on your form till you get them flying straight. I'd watch to see if you're plucking the string.
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As mentioned, torqueing the bow can cause such arrow flight. Torqueing the string can also cause similar issues. If you have a mechanical release I would try it as this is how I became aware of a similar problem I had.
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I agree,those form issues can cause the problem.To high a drawing arm elbow can cause too much downward pressure on the nock,with the top finger and that can cause it as well.The arrow most likely is bouncing off the edge of the shelf,due to one of the form issues.Check for that.You should hear it and there may be a mark.
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When you say that you Always hit nock left, that sounds consistent to me.
With the broad range of spines you mention, it sure sounds like a form issue to me too.
It can be very difficult to diagnose your own problems. Is there someone that is knowledgable, that can watch you shoot?
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Tuning by grouping bare shafts and fletched shafts is the best method I have used. IMHO.
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I do have a gentleman that I have been meaning to shoot with. He has been shooting a long time. That seems to be the next course of action I need to take. Thanks again everyone.
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Originally posted by Flying Dogg:
As mentioned, torqueing the bow can cause such arrow flight. Torqueing the string can also cause similar issues. If you have a mechanical release I would try it as this is how I became aware of a similar problem I had.
I took my wife's mechanical release tonight and shoot some arrows. My fletched 150s with 175 grain heads flew great and the bare shafts flew straight and grouped exactly with my fletched arrows only nock high. I believe I have a lot of work to do on my form!!
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UPDATE: No matter how perfect my release was feeling everything was nock right, completely right, or off the bag completely at longer distances with the Heritage 90s, and 150s. So I went in the other direction. Out of frustration and desperation I cut my two 250s to 29 inches like my other shafts and for the first time ever, arrows were impacting to the left of the bulls eye. After some playing I ended up with this at 30 yards!!!! With some fine tuning I will be ready to roll.
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/WVOutdoors/20160424_200452-1_zpskm0g2hka.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/WVOutdoors/media/20160424_200452-1_zpskm0g2hka.jpg.html)
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My wife had to use a mechanical release last year, you wouldn't believe the wide range of arrow combinations flew good with it for me when I was messing around with it, I wouldn't let that decide anything for your shooting, using a mechanical release actually lowers the draw weight a fair amount because you aren't taking up as much of the string at the same draw length.
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You are right old_goat2. It ended up that everything was shooting well with the mechanical release. That is when I went back to my tab and kept experimenting. The picture is 30yds with my tab.
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When I have encountered the all-left problem, it was usually because the brace height needed adjusting.
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I hope it is fixed for you. It can be frustrating. Pretty much the same thing happened to me a few years ago, I ended up shooting heavier spined arrows.
For awhile. The next year as I was shooting, I noticed my arrows tailing off to the left. I ended up significantly reducing my arrow spine. I am shooting 50-54# bows mostly. 60/65 or 65/70 woodies with 160 grain heads. I had been up to 75/80.