Ok...so I have been delving into bamboo arrow making for the past couple weeks. Wow! I wish I would have known about them a year or so ago as they are just fantastic. Excellent flight and just plain fun to build.
I have about 10 shafts that the nock end was cut right through the growth node as opposed to just behind it. My question is...can you put a self nock in the node itself? If I cut the node off the remaining shaft might be a bit too skinny to fit a self nock and I would probably have to taper it and put a 5/16" glue on nock. These are spined at 70-75lbs & I am very surprised at how skinny they are, but the ones I have finished fly just great. Oh, and I didn't cut these as they were purchased pre cut.
Thanks in advance!
Bill-
I have cut in self nocks as you described.
If the node is a little large I sand it down.
Usually I wrap sinew just at the bottom of the cut in.
I do like Macbow. you can remove the node cut in a self nock and add a sinew wrap below the nock. Some folks fill the center hole with a similar size dowel or bamboo skewer before cutting in the self nock.
Ok. Thanks for the replies guys. I'll give it a go this weekend and see how it turns out. I was just concerned if the node itself had the structural integrity to handle the stress of the string during a shot.
Bill-
These have a piece of wood glued into the end of the shaft then the nocks cut into it. Then wrapped for strength.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/cane2-2.png)
I would never trust just the node to be strong enough. I sinew wrap them all.
Oh yeah...to be clear, I am wrapping all my self nocks with sinew. I also put a bit of superglue in the cut of the nock as well. I was just concerned with the structure of the node as these are on the thin side...it's hard to put in words and tried to post a pic through my phone and am not having any luck. Maybe later with my laptop I'll have better luck...
Bill-
Here are a few hill cane arrows with sinew wrapped self nocks. Generally the nock end of my cane arrows are about 5/16", point end about 3/8" on a 30" arrow.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/forPA011.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/primitive%20archer/forPA011.jpg.html)
Well, that's about the diameter I am working with so I guess they should be ok. How deep is your nock cut Pat? I may try to make these a bit more on the shallow side.
Roy and Pat, those arrows look great...I think I may be a convert to cane/bamboo only from this point forward. Just a great shaft material.
Bill-
about 3/8" to 1/2", but I never measure.
Bill,
I sent you a private message.
Denny
I glue about 1 1/2" piece of bamboo skewer stick in the nock and point end using titebond II or III. Kind of an inside footing and it really beefs up the ends of the arrow. I have done both self nocked the arrow or tapered them for plastic nocks.
Thanks for all the input. I went ahead this weekend and decided to continue putting self nocks into the remaining arrows where the nodes are and that is some stout stuff. I don't think I have much to worry about as far as material integrity, but I will take Jon's advice about reinforcing with some bamboo skewers...sure couldn't hurt!
Bill-
I just found a supply of what I assume is bamboo. It grows probably 20' tall, the largest of which are no more than 2" in diameter. I have been wanting to start making my own arrows for some time now, and I figure where better to start than with free shafts. My only plan now is to at least make some fit for stumping and small game hunting, where I will be more likely to loose or break arrows. Maybe if I get lucky, I will have enough that match in spine and weight to make a good set of hunting arrows, but I have some nice cedar arrows until then.
I got about 15 that are arrow size, and a few larger ones that I have made into whistles for my son and I.
I am going to try to go back this week and get a whole bunch cut, and this time I am going to take a 3/8" wrench so I can size them better than I can with my eyes. They seem to have fairly thick walls, which I assume will make a stronger and heavier arrow.
I am pretty excited to get started, but will have to wait for them to season of course. Until then I will work with some garden stakes from the home improvement store, just to get accustomed to the straightening process. Unfortunately, my new house has an electric stove, so I will have to find some other heat source, like a heat gun or something.
What are some other methods which anyone has used for heat? I feel like an electric stove doesn't put off enough heat, a candle is too weak, and my gas grill would be wasting too much gas for what I need.
Roy from Pa. great work sir.
I started a set from garden stakes. Got the ends fitted with dowels for extra strength and made the self nocks. I had trouble getting the point end tapered with my taper tool. Some were too big (my measuring fault, I guess.) I need to make a sanding jig to sand the tapers. I've seen the articles in the 'How To' section here but couldn't find what the actual taper degree is. Anyone care to enlighten me?
The one that I did get tapered well seems to bare shaft nock right ( stiff spine?)
I went through my culls again for some smaller shafts to see how they work out but haven't gotten to work on them yet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/PowDuck/Archery%20Stuff/820da197524c3ac0f67eed8d7fc06279.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/PowDuck/Archery%20Stuff/7d65a47dfe3a65fdc52416ebc556e7ca.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/PowDuck/Archery%20Stuff/30953d09400f85f3ebfd72ddd6a46aa5.jpg)