Im making a new set of single bevel broadheads for an upcoming WI bear hunt. How are other guys here that make their own broadheads making the joint between the ferrule and the blade (Aside from brazing). I dont have a problem making the joint at the tip of the ferrule to the blade but the back end is a cause for concern.
Im using field points and 7 1/4" circular saw blades for the main blade. Im slotting the field tip (ferrule) and can peen the tip of the ferrule onto the blade but the joint at the back end is more challenging.
Ron, when I did that, I just made them into tie on heads with about 3/4" of tang.
ChuckC
What about just a simple trade point. I have notched from the bottom, notched and drilled, and notched in from the side. I use JB Weld and artificial sinew. Going to make some pine glue to be a little more primitive for my next arrows.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/TRADEPOINTS008.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/broadheads/TRADEPOINTS008.jpg.html)
I plan to use traditional carbon (Gold tips)from 3 rivers so I will be attaching a threaded insert rather than tying on.
Im thinking of attaching the blade to a threaded aluminum tapered adapter. I would slot the adapter to accept the blade.
Over the weekend I starting messing around with a prototype. Now Im thinking of instead, using a threaded adapter rather than a reshaped field point.
(http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x285/newscouts/IMG_3152_zpsbrelxatq.jpg)
Beveling made easy with the right tool for the job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmJW7zdfiR4
Followed howard hill right down to the first l- made ferrule out of steel , cut down the center and dual riveted. Blade is of circular saw blade. Weighs 260 grains - screw in type connector.
Have shot them into tree and ground - no tip curl, just a slight chipped edge due to temper issues.
Will post link to thread which I posted earlier. They are true 3:1 but have since been given a tanto tip.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=146385;p=1#000008
Those look awesome!
Great work.
Bisch
Wow those look awesome! I dont think I was born with the proper skills..
Im thinking I will replace the re-shaped field point with an aluminum tapered adapter. I bought some long, 43 grain adapters. I will need to slot them to receive the blade. If I drill a hole near the end of the adapter I can peen over the end of the adapter in that hole and then use JB weld at the back in the slots.
I am amazed at the number of guys who have the skills and desire to craft so much equipment in home shops. It would never cross my mind to try to design and fabricate a broadhead. This type thread is one of the things that make the Gang so interesting.
This is not my first homemade broadhead. I have done it in the past and even took a nice 8 point with all homemade gear.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w124/bow_project/BH%20test/2008head2.jpg)
Good job.... By hand or do you have access to some sort of milling machinery and welder ?
ChuckC
All by hand. I developed a broadhead sharpening guide that takes all the guess work out of keeping a constant angle on the bevel. I showed it in the video but here it is again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0Cs1GckwJA
and another.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmJW7zdfiR4
Without it, I could never hope to hold a constant angle on single and double bevels.
I need to copy your design. I use a lansky and a sharpie to get the bevel started , scrape metal off with a file using the sharpie as a guide. Finally got them to 30 degrees today , stropping with rubbing compound and got the shaving sharp. Not much hair left on thighs, classic case of blade mange.
I hate free handing. Thats why I developed this tool. Perfect and consistent blade bevels are a simple as rolling a hot wheels car on a counter top.
Saw the vids - hours of elbow grease saved. The zwickey have vexed me due to some residual high or low spots. This along with various grit sandpaper should be the ticket
Yes Zwickey and some others come from the factory with a lot of time at your own bench getting them ready to hunt with. Not sure why they do that but the edges are pretty poor and uneven.
Just got my Stay Sharp Broad head sharpening guide in the mail today. Just got 3 Magnus Classics razor sharp with out to much trouble. That says a lot as I am sharpening challenged.
cool tool!
in fact i thought it was the one from lee valley
guess they make something similar
very nice broadheads sir
guess you wont be shooting any flying shots at pheasants with them!!
No, these heads are meant for WI Black Bear. And perhaps Deer.
Those are great looking heads RG. You might have a second career in the making. :thumbsup:
I already have 2 and that's enough for any person.
I need a Stay Sharp. Where can I get one?
QuoteOriginally posted by black velvet:
I need a Stay Sharp. Where can I get one?
+1
Just watched the video and had a quick google.
http://staysharpguide.com/
Looks like a plastic version of the KME Broadhead Sharpener. Same principle anyways. Just a heads up.... This thread may not sit well with the mods if you aren't a sponsor.
I wanted a little lighter version for the bear hunt broadhead so I switched from the re-shaped, steel, field points to aluminum adapters.
Since they are aluminum I can use a micro saw and a Dremmel tool to cut the slots.
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3242_zpswoni6oqn.jpg)
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3245_zpsfyjnbnq7.jpg)
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3244_zpshxdaipvi.jpg)
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3246_zpswmlnnmfa.jpg)
Then it was back to the saw blade
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3243_zpscucwtkz6.jpg)
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3247_zpsq1wwnzjd.jpg)
I used my broadhead sharpening guide to make the single bevel.
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3248_zpsvapvo6fc.jpg)
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3250_zpssashvtlx.jpg)
I will use J.B. Weld in the slot cut in the adapter to fuse the blade and I will peen over the tip of the adapter in the hole in the blade to further trap the blade on the adapter. The J.B. Weld and eventual paint will have the final broadhead around 180 grains. Here is a video of the fit up before fusing the parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0GNV9IzqcE
Wow....
So..do you guys take the head off to sharpen it..then remount it?
RGKulas
what do you use to cut out your blades from the saw blade?
QuoteOriginally posted by Russ Clagett:
So..do you guys take the head off to sharpen it..then remount it?
No, I will fuse the blade to the ferrule using peening (at the tip) and J.B. Weld and will sharpen and re-sharpen from then on with the ferrule in place.
QuoteOriginally posted by newhouse114:
RGKulas
what do you use to cut out your blades from the saw blade?
Dremmel tool with the large high speed cut-off discs (mesh reinforced). It does an outstanding job and does not overheat the metal and cuts great lines (if you have a steady hand) I cut out 7 heads with two discs.
I forge mine with an intragal tang (all one piece) that fits into a carbon shaft...tippit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/TeamTippitBroadheads2011001.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/IMG_2970.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/IMG_2981.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/IMG_3011.jpg)
What is the blade edge angle, in degrees, with your Stay Sharp tool? 20, 25, degrees??? I'd like to know.
Thanks
For fixed blade heads its 22 degrees, for replaceable blades its 19 degrees. There are 2 diff. versions of the broadhead sharpening guide depending on whether you used fixed blade broadheads or replacable blades.
The first head is fused to the threaded adapter with J.B. Weld and by peening the tip closed in the hole in the blade. Then it was primed and painted.
In the universe of possible colors for broadheads, Ive always felt that glossy plum has been under-utilized. I hope to rectify that. Who knows, it might catch on. I took an indoor and an outdoor photo and you would think they were two different broadheads based on how the colors seem to have changed based on the lighting.
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3257_zpsxfqeqcl1.jpg)
I calculated exactly just how much J.B. Weld and how much purple paint would be needed to get the head to exactly 180 grains....................... Nah, I just got lucky. The goal was 180 grains but I didn't think I would hit it spot on. Its better to be lucky than good. Now I just need to make a few more.
(http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b452/staysharpguide/IMG_3255_zpsj9chhsgg.jpg)
Looks like you sharpened the back sides of the blade. Nice work. It would be nice to find aluminum adapters that were smooth to help pene:tration.
Ive been getting the same question via pm.
By peening, I mean Im squashing the split tip of the alum adapter into the hole in the blade. Im bending the adapter tips together (along with J.B. Weld) to trap the blade onto the ferrule so it cant be pulled off the adapter. It sure as heck cant be pushed through but if I were to hit a tree and wanted to pull the head I don't want the blade to pull off the adapter so I smashed the tip ala Fred Bear stainless blue broadheads.