Ok so I use full length gt trad 300 spine with 175 field point and standard insert. My form is not exactly something I want to mention due to its absence but don't believe it's that bad to allow for the inconsistency.
Stu's calc also tells me I'm on point with the set up. The arrows seem to fly towards where I'm aiming (general directions) not too bad. My question is twofold
Brace = 71/2
Nock hight = 5/8
1- do you think my spine is too stiff? Or settings not optimal
2 - do you think I have to drop bow weight and focus more on form, I have a recurve that's a bit lighter but not sure on the recurve variables will impact the longbow form? Maybe just more practice? :deadhorse:
I have not shot a whip, nor tuned one so take that as a disclaimer.
However with the same arrow spine/length & draw length most of my longbows tune with about 275 grns upfront. and thats at 70 lbs draw at 30.5
Hmm, noted, but I have bare shafted and 340 spine shows weak and when I cut them down they're too short for a broadhead, guess I'll get back to bare shafting again this weekend. I'll try some heavier inserts.
Way too stiff
.340 with something in the 175 to 250 gr point should be better
I would say to 300 are to stiff
340s or 330 spine should work great I have a heavy longbow 64lbs at 29 and it like a 340 spine 200 grain point
Yeah too stiff. The 2 whips I owned liked lighter than normal spines arrows. I'd say a 340 with 200-225 out front seems more feasible
Thanks gents, appreciate the assistance, any ballpark on nock hight. I'll be testing the 340's this weekend and keep you posted.
How do I know if I'm getting a false weak from the 340 spine, what steps can I take to eliminate this. Is this my release or form in general?
pm sent
Shoot the .340 bare shaft full length with 300 grains and see what happens. Check how they fly, really hard for me to say how they will fly. Try to get at least 15yds out. Good luck.
What is the length of your Whip?
Mine is a 64" and run it right at 7 5/8"
I'm shooting full length 300 axis with 300 up front and they fly like darts for me out of a 53# pika at 30.5" draw. The 350 carbon expresses fly equally well with 200 up front for me. I think you're in the ball park. Just my 2 cents.
250 hr field points would be a cheap way to add front weight to test. Then you could throw in a brass insert if you like how that much weight shoots.
64" whip HS 30.5" draw / 62#. 300 Easton trads cut 31.5". 50gr brass insert 250 grain point. 7 1/4 brace/ 5/8" nock. this combo works for my Whip. I do show a little weak with bare shafts, but with fletched they fly great.
These guys are probably right, but..
I think your last line in the opening post is right. Keep shooting what you have until YOU know it is too stiff.
It sounds like you really don't know other than they are generally flying where you are looking.
I was in a similar situation and after significant practice, I could see my arrows drifting left of the target at over twenty yards. I weakened the spine I was shooting and that worked. I got that from Black Widow's Ken Beck video on tuning. If you search here I think you will find it.
Whips are all I shoot--- none finer. Mine like arrows weaker than what I would have guessed. I wouldn't be surprised if 400s were your magic bullet for that bow. Should you go to a lighter draw? I switched this past year from 50 pounds to 42 and the refinement I've been able to build into my form is incredible. My accuracy and consistency have both improved. Best of luck.
I'd bet money that a black AD Trad heavy cut 31" to 31.5" with 200 to 250 on the front would yield dart like flight.
thank you all for the advice and encouragement, I've just spent 4 hours bare shafting with both 340's and 300's but I'm non the wiser. I think I'll be trolling the classifieds for a lighter whip to work on form. I'll give it another go tomorrow and Sunday though when I'm not so fatigued.
Keep the suggestions coming I'm sure with all y'all assistance I'll nail it down in no time. :notworthy:
While you're working w that 60 pounder shoot less arrows, rest between shots and focus on form and making quality shots. Bareshafting will help you tune arrows to bow, but only if you can maintain consistent form, release etc.
I agree more like 400 usually, but there are many factors difficult to articulate on the internet