Been having trouble getting the string to come out to the correct length.I made my jig from Tim Floods specs @ Trad Gang. I have a 60"AMO recurve, so I should use the 60" pin hole in the jig, I twist my 2 bundles of B50 together @ 9", and make a 2" top loop, and 1 1/2" bottom loop. After 30 twists and stretch, I'm at 54" instead of the correct finished length of 56". Should I move the pin to the 62 or 64" hole to get my finished length to 56" ??
Take good notes. As long as you make the string the same way every time, you should get a consistent string length. Then you can just move the peg to the desired hole. I number the holes on my jig, rather than assign them a length.
Mark the jig by string length, not by bow length. AMO/ATA states the finished string should be 3" shorter than the marked bow length under a 100# load (actually the bow is supposed to be marked 3" longer than the string that puts it at proper brace).
texasarchery.org/Documents/AMO/AMOStandards.pdf
Big problem with this is lots of bows don't follow AMO specs.
Also, everyone is a little different. Like AH said, take lots of notes and go from there. There are plenty of mistakes to make--don't waste time making the same one over and over.
You are welcome to e-mail me if you need help.
Chad
So bottom line is yes move it the 2 inches.
Each of us has our own "amount of twist " we put into each twist.
By making notes you can create your own formula.
I have to add + 2 inches to my length and take up formuls.
I have been using my home made jig for about 35 years and it looks it.
Buy LBR's video, " how to make a great bowstring" too. It's worth having.
Have you stretched your string? My D10 strings always come in a bit short but after stretching overnight - ratchet strap over a door as tight as a guitar string, shooting in, etc. everything is fine. As other's have said YMMV - we are all a bit different in the amount of twists, measuring, etc. What works for me may not work for you.
Move it to 62" hole.
I believe Tims jig specs are for 8" not 9"..That would be your 2" short.
I believe Tim's specs call for 8" not 9". That would be your 2" short.
Thanks for all the replies. Last night I did another one using the 62 pin, ended up with 75 twists stretched to get the brace to 6 1/2". Not stated what brace is, so I'm just looking for the sweet spot..
I start my loop ends at 8 inches also. So Bob is correct.
75 twists sounds like an awful lot to me. And a 6 1/2-inch brace height on a 60-inch recurve is rather low. Maybe you were closer than you think with your first string, particularly after you stretch it a little.
Can you post pics of your loop twists and a braced bow showing amount of twist in the string?
Maybe I'm missing something but I cannot get the numbers on the plans of that string jig to add up. Here is a marked up copy for explanation purposes. Measuring from the center of the board on the right side, down to the nail in the lower left corner and then up to the first peg marked 48", I get a distance of 30.886" (.75" + 28" + 2.136"). Multiplying that by 2 to give me the total strand length at that peg equals 61.772". Where does the 48" come in? Is that a finished string length number? If so, that gives me a little less than 7" for each loop. That's kind of short to my way of thinking.
I'm sure I am overlooking something. Please explain it to me.
Darren
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q240/dhaverstick/stringjig_zpsum90lztn.jpg)
I have been using the same string jig for 25 years. If I used the marked pin holes I would end up with a long string every time. I drilled mine in 1/2" increments and came up with a formula to get perfect length strings every time. The feet on the jig are so I can hold it in my lap to make strings.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/100_0440.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/100_0440.jpg.html)
For my jig it is 1/2" shorter pin position, 7" to start the lower loop and 7 1/2" to start the upper loop.
Adapt you process to what works for you.
Mine is marked in 1" increments also (holes 1/2" apart).