My question is "How far away from the back of the bow to the paper for correct results?"
I've always heard and had good luck myself about six feet. I made a neat paper tuner that I could roll paper down to get a fresh sheet.
There is something that's always bothered me about paper tuning. I admit up front I am not good at it and have not had a lot of practice (I use bareshaft planing). What about the archer's paradox? Has the arrow really stopped flexing and oscilating at 6 feet? Does it read the same at 5ft? 7ft? Certainly it must be different for wood, alum and carbon as the recovery time is so much different for each.
I read an article once about papertuning where the author advocated shooting very close (maybe 6feet). The author said something along the lines that paradox did not exist. I do not believe this. I believe that paradox is very real--- some folks have even developed some great videos showing it. I don't paper tune up close as I believe like bladepeek said, that at 6 feet out the arrow is still going through paradox and paper will show that. I use bareshaft tuning and then verify my tune w fletched arrows and broadheads.
I shoot and change until I get a bullet hole at 6 feet. If you start further out, you are giving the feathers a chance to stabilize the arrow which would hide tuning issues.
I then move the paper back to about 15 feet and verify everything is the same.
I then put broadheads on and shoot without the paper to make sure the broadheads go to the same place as the field points.
I have been using this system for a very long time. I cannot tell you that my arrows are perfectly tuned, but I can tell you that I can screw any broadhead of the correct weight on the end of my arrow and it will impact the same as the field point arrow.
Bisch
Bisch has it exactly right. I forgot to mention that you are supposed to step back after you get good tears up close.
I'm with Bisch
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
I shoot and change until I get a bullet hole at 6 feet. If you start further out, you are giving the feathers a chance to stabilize the arrow which would hide tuning issues.
I then move the paper back to about 15 feet and verify everything is the same.
I then put broadheads on and shoot without the paper to make sure the broadheads go to the same place as the field points.
I have been using this system for a very long time. I cannot tell you that my arrows are perfectly tuned, but I can tell you that I can screw any broadhead of the correct weight on the end of my arrow and it will impact the same as the field point arrow.
Bisch [/QUOTE
Thanks Bisch you saved me some typing
Pretty much how I do it too.After all that I can take a bare shaft and group it with my fletched shafts.
Thank you all Ric
I do about what Bisch does.
If you're tuned good at about 5-6 foot the arrow doesn't flop around anymore.
I'm another who follows the Bisch system, altho I usually head right out to the range when I get things right at 6 ft. So far, when I get it tuned close, it is good.
Slo mo videos confirm that arrows flex for quite a ways down range, but the point and nock ends tend to stay in line, so they can still show a small hole.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
I shoot and change until I get a bullet hole at 6 feet. If you start further out, you are giving the feathers a chance to stabilize the arrow which would hide tuning issues.
I then move the paper back to about 15 feet and verify everything is the same.
I then put broadheads on and shoot without the paper to make sure the broadheads go to the same place as the field points.
I have been using this system for a very long time. I cannot tell you that my arrows are perfectly tuned, but I can tell you that I can screw any broadhead of the correct weight on the end of my arrow and it will impact the same as the field point arrow.
Bisch
Bisch,
what do you do to make adjustments for weak arrows?
I just came back from paper tuning again. got it thank you Bisch. DanielB89 you can lower your brace height that what I just got finished doing.
I thought you lower your BH if you have a stiff arrow. Raise it for weak
QuoteOriginally posted by DanielB89:
Bisch,
what do you do to make adjustments for weak arrows?
I do one of the following, depending on how weak it is:
Try a lighter point weight.
I cut the shaft shorter.
If it is way weak I go to a stiffer spine shaft.
Bisch
QuoteOriginally posted by Fletcher:
Slo mo videos confirm that arrows flex for quite a ways down range, but the point and nock ends tend to stay in line, so they can still show a small hole.
Thanks Fletcher. Further review of some slo-mo shots tells me that you nailed it. The mid section may look like a wet noodle, but the nock and tip pretty much stay lined up with each other.
I know I tend to over-think things, but this makes it easier for me to understand how you can get a bullet hole with an arrow still in paradox, and why the exact distance from the paper is not critical.
I'm either lazy or untalented...or both.
I just buy Arrow Dynamic arrows and they really do SEEM to fly well out of most any setup I have.
(Truth be known, I also own and use a lot of Big Jim's Gold Tip Blems with pretty darn good results.)
The operative word being SEEM, I guess.
Wish I had the patience and talent to paper tune or do all that other testing.
I'm sure it pays off in better flight.
I do some prep work of course, trying different weights and points and inserts etc., but not to the extent that some guys do.
Once mine look like they fly well and hit well (most of the time) I jut go with it.
We all know that a bad release or other bad form differences from shot to shot can make one think he has the wrong combination.
I guess I am missing out on some of the fun in trad archery.
Irv
QuoteOriginally posted by DanielB89:
Bisch [/qb]
Bisch,
what do you do to make adjustments for weak arrows? [/QB][/QUOTE]
You can also build out the side plate on the bow. Works pretty good.
Do I paper tune with a bare shaft, or a fletched arrow.
QuoteOriginally posted by acollins:
Do I paper tune with a bare shaft, or a fletched arrow.
Fletched!!!!!
Bisch
Thanks
I paper tune with a bare shaft for everything but wood. Fletched does ok, but a little harder to read the results for me.
google- the archers paradox vintage archery co. Really good slo-mo video of arrow paradox.