Hey all,
I have a Recurve that's composed of a Morrison 17 inch ILF Aluminum riser with KAP Challenger Carbon SHORT limbs. The bow is about 58 inches long, give or take a shade and pulls about 45 pounds.
Morrison recommends a brace height of 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 and it's set at about 6 3/4 now. The nock height is 4/8 or 1/2" above. I am shooting off of an elevated Centerrest screw-in type rest. Well it's really a copy of a Centerrest, not the actual thing.
I have 2 rubber whiskers on each side of a Fast Flight string. That's about all the particulars I can think of to mention. Well, maybe one more. The riser is cut to where I could shoot of the shelf. It has a very slight rise to it, but I suspect it would be better done if built up a bit more.
I can take pics of this part if you want to see it. I've never tried shooting it off the shelf.
OK, I am having trouble getting this thing quiet. I am going to try to raise the brace height to 7 inches and see what that does.
I also don't have anything to quiet the top of the string from hitting the limb surface after the shot. I am thinking of wrapping the stop of the string on each side with yarn. The string I have for my Bear Grizzly has these wraps on the string and it shoots really quiet. I figure it couldn't hurt.
Also, if there are others out there that have this riser and shoot it off the shelf, I'd like to know how you have it set up to do it and if it quietened the bow down after you did this....or if you think it would work for this bow if I was to switch to it.
Any ideas and help would be appreciated.
Thanks all.
nalajr
With an ILF riser you have the ability to adjust your limbs top and bottom to get them bending the same. It's not uncommon to have the limbs set at even tiller and not bend the same.
I'm not familiar with KAP Challenger limbs, but i think you should try changing the preload & tiller settings and then try different brace heights. between the ILF adjustment bolts, and twisting your string up or down, you should be able to find the sweet spot.... i think i'd lean towards a higher brace for noise issues.
have you got the limb bolts backed out, or cranked down?
The bolts are backed out 2 1/2 turns, so it's almost in the middle.
Are you thinking that I need to change how much one limb is cranked down due to my 3-under style? If so, how much of a difference would that warrant? I've never messed with that kind of setting before so I don't have a clue. I've never been a tuning nut like some shooters are. I just try to get 'em relatively quiet and start shooting them.
This one is gonna require a bit more input from me to get it where I want it though. Will be playing around with it tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks
Nalajr
Those brace height recommendations on the Morrison site are probably for Morrison limbs.
Try different brace heights, check your tiller, maybe even isn't the best for your set up. I would get rid of the cat whiskers......try wool puffs or the felt from Two Tracks. String leeches work well also. I also put the fuzzy part of Velcro on the back of the limb where it can contact the riser. Change one thing at a time and just play with it........best of luck.
How heavy are your arrows ? Are the nocks very tight fit ?
CHuckC
I pretty much have the same set up. Check tiller & up brace to 7 3/4 inches. My arrows are around 480 grains with my set up. Very little noise. Give it a try.
Kirk
So what is the best way to check to see if your limbs are bending the same. I presume you need to check it while the shooter is drawing.
Check nock fit, since that is easy. A tight fit can increase noise. Work on your release--a cleaner release is quieter. Check the tiller, tinker with it in small increments. Make small adjustments in brace. Check silencer placement. I've had great success with cat whiskers for around 20 years. Most folks use too much (too long) and/or don't bother to tune the silencers. That can make a big difference.
Gonna try some of the things you all have mentioned today.
As for tuning the whiskers, no I have never done that.
I have read about the setup where one is placed at 1/4th the length of string at the top and 1/3rd the length at the bottom.
What I am unclear about is what measurement is used to determine the 1/4 and 1/3 lengths. Do you measure the TOTAL length of the string and then figure what 1/4th of that is and put it at the top and the same on the bottom OR do you measure the length of the string where it touches the limbs on top and bottom and then take 1/4th and 1/3rd of that length?
Thanks
I don't think you stated whether you shoot split or 3U...even tiller is a good starting place for 3U, slightly positive for split. Bob will tell you don't be afraid to try slightly negative if you shoot 3U and still aren't satisfied(it's what he shoots). He's also not a big fan of anything in the string groove of the limbs that might impede tracking. I use adhesive-backed felt in the "slap" area just below where string contact at brace height ends...Border will tell you you don't need anything in the area of the limb where the string wraps the tips anyway. I assume you've eyeballed limb alignment, as you can adjust it and while you're at it see how the arrow is centered with riser/string. A lot of metal riser ILF's are cut further past center than what you may be used to, but you can adjust for that with the Centerest. And for what it's worth, I've owned several and never seen a metal riser I thought was as quiet as my Morrison wood ILF riser. They resonate sound as opposed to absorbing it. I'll give up that .0001" of supposed flex the "technoweenies" obsess over for quiet any day...of course you don't need to hold your breath until you see me on the Olympic podium either, lol!
My bow went from sounding like a shotgun going off to a gentle thud with just half a turn backed off the bottom limb bolt.
Measure the string from where it last touches the bow, then put a silencer on the 1/3 and 1/4 points. Slight adjustments from there may be needed. I've seen small adjustments make huge differences, especially with shorter bows.
HI
i have same problem with a W&W rcx17 and Uuka nature full carbon limbs
my personal think is that is your limbs are the problem because it was carbon
this material are make very bad noise (hope it was ok for you to endersand me cause i am French )
so i have put a piece of foam on the end of limbs and a ywool yarn on string
with this addition the sound was quietter
So how does it shoot at your present setup? Noisy or not!
Cause all you said is its loud.
With those profile limbs the 17" metal ILF Morrison I had liked 7 1/2- 7 3/4", even tiller, nock point 1/2-5/8" depending on shaft diameter, 3 under. 1/4 point for silencers. Terry's hush puppies worked better than rubber whiskers on it for me.
As mentioned a small piece of adhesive felt or fuzzy velcro on limb belly were string can slap helps. I had one with a loose brass sleeve on the limb bolt and once that was tightened she quieted down. Good luck.
Well right now I wouldn't say that it's loud, per se, but it is not where I'd want to hunt with it. If you were standing say 15 yards away form me, you could hear the shot when I release.
The arrows fly just as pretty as you please, I love watching the arrows arc down into the target, I just wish it was quieter.
I didn't get a chance to fool with it today, but definitely will tomorrow. Gonna try some of the things you all have suggested. I suspect raising the brace height will quieten it down some, we'll see.
By the way, I shoot 3 under with a tab. My release is good, but I won't pretend that I don't have an ugly release more than I'd like. But even when I have a bad release, the sound isn't much different than when I have a really good release.
Thanks all.
Nalajr
I shoot a Morrison 19" wood ILF with his medium max1 limbs. I draw 29" shoot off the shelf and ended up with a slightly longer then recommended BH. Also as mentioned a small piece of velcro where string slaps limb. But one thing I also did that helped a lot was teflon taped the limb bolts and purchased the brass collars from Lancaster instead of Bob's collars. A lot of good ideas mentioned, take your time and it'll come together for you.
I shoot W&W and SF limbs on my Morrison risers and they like a 7 1/2 brace height, I suspect the Kap's are going to like at least that or a little higher. Morrison limbs and a Border hex6 like the lower brace around 7".
The bow Hush system works well for all of them or wool yarn balls works well too. I always put a piece of felt under each limb pad towards the bottom as well, seems to help.
For those that have a Morrison riser and shoot off the shelf, do you have it built up or do you shoot it just as it came from the builder?
I've thought about trying it.
Nalajr
Nala,
I think the Gen III comes with a radiused shelf. Mine is Gen II I think and just has a bit of a "ledge", but I shoot with sealskin which is thick and it shoots off the shelf just fine. I'm guessing these are cut further past center than Bob's wood riser, which are 3/16ths past. I use a plunger off the shelf in the slower hole. Without one I'd guess you may have to build the sideplate out a bit.
Well I done some shooting today and made a change or 2.
I raised the brace up to almost 8 inches and it did get much quieter with each of the 4 different arrows I have in my quiver.
I then went back and got the brace back to 7 1/2 just to see if it was still as quiet. It was pretty close. The 8 inch might be just a tad quieter.
One thing I noticed though is that my arrows looked like they were slower at 8 inches than they were at 6 3/4 inches. Which I guess that's to be expected, but I didn't think it would be noticeable like it was. Is that normal?
Lastly, I had a pair of cat whiskers on each side and I cut one off of each side and then measured like you all said and then moved the top one to 1/4 of the length and the bottom to 1/3rd the length. Honestly I really couldn't tell that much difference at all.
I would like to try shooting off of the shelf just to see how it is. I might like it and it might be just the ticket. I won't know till I try it though.
The shelf on my riser looks like a squashed pyramid. If you had a pyramid and took the palm of your hand and pushed down on it until it was about 1/4 inch high, that's what it looks like. Naturally it's as wide as the shelf is so there's plenty of room.
I don't know whether it is supposed to have something on it like the fuzzy side of velcro or a leather piece or something just to lessen the harsh sound of dragging your shaft across bare metal. Also I would not want to have to use a side plunger. If I went to shooting off the shelf I would want it to be as simple as possible.
Thanks all
Nalajr
Nala,
I've got Border 6.5's on mine which need a lower BH, so I'm not much help there. I'd give Bob a call on his recommendations for "off the shelf". He can save you some trial and error.
I talked to Bob today. He gave me some advice on how to try shooting off the shelf. Gonna try it this weekend. Pretty excited about seeing how it will be too.
Will update later.
Nalajr
My good bud that i shoot regularly with took 2nd in the World's with a Morrison last year.
His bow is relatively quiet with very light gpp shafts and no silencers. His brace height is well above the recommendation.