Ok ive been studying n watching u tube, yea i kno but u use the resources u have lol , ges thats why im coming back to u guys with my ? Its about bare shaft tuning , ok if i order my kit from like 3rivers , when i get them should i cut them down to my arrow length needed before i start figuring for spine cuz i got to thinkin if i get a arrow and head combination set for good spine then i cut them down to my needed length then that will blow it all outta poportion wouldnt it? I have a 26 inch draw im hoping i can shoot a shorter arrow with heavy head or i may be way off with my thought on that as well , i live in Conroe , Tx lots of bow shops around but none really for traditional so i hope the question are ok i prolly be askin alot more before im done i wanna learn everything i can
Probly gonna order the carbon goldtip trad only kit
You ask an interesting question.
Some of us prefer all arrows we shoot to be the same length. It allows for a consistent sight picture, either focused, or peripheral.
Others prefer to tune their shafts by cutting them.
You have to decide which way you want to adopt and go from there.
Start long, and let tuning tell you how long the finished length should be. It does not matter if there is a bit of extra shaft hangout the front of your bow, as long as it is tuned well.
Bisch
Carbon arrows are more sensitive to length then weight then weight upfront.They don't come in as many different spines as wood or aluminum.They have their basic static spine and you achieve the dynamic spine you need by shooting,triming and tuning.They recover much faster from the paradox then other types of arrows.Depending on the bow and how the riser is cut and length of the arrow adding more weight upfront does not always weaken the spine for tuning.You can get false readings on bareshafting.I start long and trim and tune from there and let my tuning determine the arrow length with carbon arrows.Once you cut them you can't put back on what you cut off.There are a lot of factors involved and different methods.
Get a fieldpoints test kit as well, it will make your life alot easier.
Why cut if you don't need to?
I only cut if I need a stiffer dynamic spine.
Since I use the tip of the arrow for aiming and my primary interest is hunting, I prefer a longer arrow. A longer arrow reduces my "point-on" distance some.
Personally, I would leave my test kit arrows uncut. Get a wide selection of heads and insert weights and figure out what the bow wants that way. When you've determined what you need, if it's a combination you can't live with then cutting is always an option...but let it be the last resort. I always thought excess arrow would bother me, but it doesn't. With the aiming style I use now, it's an advantage if anything. I never understand archers who've made up their minds...I want to shoot this arrow, at this length, with this point weight. They're painting themselves into a corner..it doesn't work that way.
Thanx alot guys what your sayin makes alotta sense, i dont use the arrow point to aim tho, i try my best to forget its there, thats mainly why i was thinkin they need to be cut , but listening to yalls remarks it makes sense that if its not tuned rt then aiming is out of the question anyway , i had a predetermined setup in mind lil creep longbow 55#@28" my draw is 26 so hoping itll be rt around 50#@26" slide on selway quiver (6arrow) fast flite string tied on nock gold tip arrows with 175 grn simmons interceptor brdhds wanted to shoot light arrow for speed but heavier head for kenetic energy n penetration but i ges im still letting the compound archer in me influence my thought path i ges i need to change my thinking some . Any other ideas for my setup wud be greatly appeciated i always take in what everyone say then add mine and put it all together a make a play book.
be sure to hit the minimum GPP the bow maker recommends. and take your time to get it set. every bow likes to eat something different.
there are several combos that will shoot great with ever bow, so keep a notebook with your brace height, knock point, string type, where you place your string silencers. your arrow types, length of arrow, grains of arrow, points weights. all the little bit of info that you use. after a while you'll have several great arrow recipes.
I personal use one arrow for everything now. I target shoot with what I hunt with. to me there's no better way to really learn your bow than play with arrow tune. just have fun and take your time.
Get the test kit, put on your 175 point and see which full length shaft is the close to tune. If your weak shorten it. If you want it shorter drop down a spine and start shortening while tuning. Don't forget you can tweak dynamic spine with side plate thickness.
also feathers and wraps, any weight on the back end will stiffen the shaft a bit to.
X2 what olddogrib said, after getting somewhat close in my process by cutting no more than a 1/4" at a time when I get close just the width of the blade changes. Given I do my part on release which is sometimes.