Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: DanielB89 on January 19, 2016, 10:40:00 AM
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Does anyone have a list, or just incite, of all the different strike plate materials as well as their thickness and stiffness?
The reason I am asking is, I am want to try to tune my bow to the arrow instead or arrow to the bow by adjusting BH and strike plate material, but i don't know many of them. I ALWAYS use velcro, but I know there are plenty of others..
Whats your favorite?
I have heard great things about a martin rug rest, any opinions?
**sorry for the scattered brain post**
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Beaver...you can't wear it out!!
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Originally posted by bluemoonrising:
Beaver...you can't wear it out!!
Ha! it sure is fun to try though!!! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Velcro, leather of different thicknesses.
I have velcro on all my bows and just tune the arrow to the bow.
Bisch
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Why not build out the existing velcro strike plate with a small section of toothpick, match stick, or strip of leather?
Good luck!
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When it comes to the strike plate - the options are pretty wide open. I have Velcro on some bows with good results, but it demands a weaker shaft as it pushes further from center. I like a really low knap self adhesive product that is marketed as silencing material to put on compounds. It's super thin, comes with a lot in a package, is cheap and available, and allows me to shoot a higher spine shaft as it's so thin. Calf hair is another great option.
Bottom line is that it will be much harder to tune the bow to the arrow. In my opinion.
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I use leather from an old wallet that I shave down to about less than 1/16th of an inch thickness on all my bows -- I like getting my arrows as close to center as possible on my cut to center bows. I just use rubber cement to glue them on. I have one cut past center bow -- for that I use thicker calf hair to bring the sideplate to back center
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I go for Velro, and like Lon above, use a toothpick or similiar material to change the thickness.
I also like the idea that it makes a small area of contact over the toothpick.
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I get the feeling that some are talking about strike plates and some about arrow rests?
What I do is select the thinnest possible material for the strike plate. Usually thin leather. And often Velcro or hair on sheep skin for the rest.
My strike plates are thin because most of my bows are longbows and not cut close to center. On a bow cut to or past center, you may want to start with something thicker, especially if your arrows are spined on the light side. Then you can do as suggested above and work your strike plate out gradually.
I totall agree with the idea of tuning the bow to the arrow. It works as long as the spine isn't too far off.
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Velcro can be loud on certain arrows on the draw and spook animals I prefer calf hair all the way
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I like The fuzzy side of Velcro. It doesn't have the "class" of some materials but it's so dang convenient. Another thing I like about it is since it already has its own sticky you can tease a toothpick in behind to build out a strikeplate.
I've found it to be quite, but only use Beman ICS.
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I use 3 different materials:
This information was given to me at a class I attended with Rick Welch.
I am right handed.
martin rug is the softest and will move the arrow to the right or allow you to use a slightly stiffer arrow.
velcro is is the intermediate material
Thin calf hair rest is the stiffest and will move the arrow to the left or let you use a slightly weaker arrow.
That said obviously the arrow has to be very close but I use these materials and shoot the same carbon fiber arrow out of 4 bows 2 are 40# and 2 are 50#
Wood arrows just leave me scratching my head.
JW
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calf hair also comes with sticky side and pre cut for convenience and are more durable
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this is what we use at my house.. thin leather sticky on one side. http://www.3riversarchery.com/adhesive-backed-leather-bow-grip-material.html
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Fuzzy side of industrial Velcro. That's what I used when I sold custom bows, and what I've used myself for years.
Terry, what arrows did you use that made noise? I've used aluminum, carbon, and wood with no problem and never had a customer complain. Got me curious. Different brand maybe?
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The pads you put on the bottom of furniture also works. It's thick, but you can shave it down as needed with a sharp knife.
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Daniel get you some 3M 2 sided tape and you can make an arrow rest of side plate out of any material that you want. If you like you can put Velcro on the 3M tape to move the side plate out. The 3M tape is just good to have around.
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I've used velcro and various thicknesses of leather. Hard to get less than 1/16" thickness with those, you can get thicker with leathers... used soft splits, brain tanned, and smooth.
Recently though, I've taken a scrap piece of shearling, trimmed down the pile side with sharp scissors, and it's become my preferred material. A little on the thick side, but soft and quiet.
Also used/use a toothpick, matchstick, etc. on some set-ups. I'm preferring to just go with the radius cut on the bow lately.Like the double sided tape.
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Piece of old leather wallet. I cut me a few triangles and stack them out as I go
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I got a nice piece of sealskin from an associate sponsor here one time. It's very smooth, thin and lasting. Looks nice too.
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Calf Hair x 2 ....Barge Cement if needed
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martin rug rest is super soft. mole skin, leather, calf hair, Velcro, corn pads like for your feet. I use a lot of the felt pads for the bottoms of chair legs. they have a sticky side and come in different thicknesses.
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I recently found some low-profile Velcro at Home Depot.
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I now use seal skin rest and strike plate. The first ones i used was given by Dannybows when i was still in the Philippines. Now that i live in Edmonton, Jack Kempf gives me some when i need it.
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How do you guys apply the seal skin. Not what glue to use but how does it look on the bow after it is applied. The direction the hair goes I guess is what I am asking.
Does seal skin last very long?
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thank you for all the replies fellas. I am definitely going to have to get me some double sided tape.
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The problem with the fuzzy Velcro is the thickness. Since most guys already use arrows that are too stiff, chances are this will make things worse...and then it will wear in.
I like calf hair, but what I have gone to is a very thin moose hide that has a ultra suede finish on one side. Yes, I sell it, but only because it works so well. It has two sided adhesive on the slick side. Put it on the shelf and side plate as one or just use it on the side plate. It is very thin and incredibly quiet....so you say "but BigJIm, I want to be able to tune". Well yeah, I say, cut a rubber band. Get one that is about a 1/4" wide and very thin. Cut it in about 3/4" lengths and put 3 or 4 in your pocket.
Start shooting. Then put one of the rubber band pieces at the fulcrum of your site window and shoot some taking note of changes. Then stack a second piece on top of the first and so on until you find out what works the best.
Eazy peazy and you can't hardly wear it out.
BigJIm
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I agree with Bisch's first sentence, Beaver Hair for me too.
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The best thing I've found yet is super pad, I get it from 3 rivers, very thin, quiet and durable.
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Thanks for the laugh Bisch. Now that's funny but so true. http://tradgang.com/noncgi/icons/icon14.gif
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Sealskin for me and slick $ tuff.
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Sealskin (which is kind of hard to find - unless uou have an old sealskin coat) and Barge cement.
I use this sparingly as a last resort, otherwise leather of various thicknesses and of course, Velcro.
I also got the sealskin from a mber here who had an old sealskin coat.
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2x with Terry on velcro spooking deer. I learned the hard way....
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I was using Velcro, but I recently bought a used longbow that had a calf hair rest/side plate on it, and I think that I like it even better. Very quiet, and after hundreds of shots, still looks like new.
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3x's with Terry... some of my carbons sound like an orchestra firing up when it gets cold... which is too bad... I like the stuff and the industrial stuff wears really well...
Jonathan
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The nice thing about sealskin is that it comes with relatively long hair on it...I just take my electric hair clippers and make the hair whatever length I want...I am sure you can wear it out but there will have been a lot of arrows over it before that happens...I tune my arrows to the bow a slightly different way...I just keep trying bows until I find one that will shoot that arrow
DDave
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Thanks. I don't have any AD's, my carbons are Trophy Ridge. Vkilled a doe opening day this season with one at maybe 5 - 8 yds, but it wasn't a dead quiet evening. I'll sure check to see if I get any noise now.