Getting ready to put together some 1535's (.246 in). I would like to put footing on the insert side of arrow, and am wondering how to account for the footing when bare shafting, and tuning in general. I have some Easton legacy 2018's, and some easton xx75 1816-light arrows I could sacrifice for footing but wasn't sure if these would be correct size. Never footed a shaft before so I don't know how to glue them in or what to use.
Thanks in advance, the knowledge on this site is unbeatable.
I use 2117s on 3555s, 3555 o.d. measures 0.297 and it goes on with a press fit. With 1535s o.d measures 0.296" so I'd still try the 2117s with a drop of glue if needed. I usually cut my 1 to 1.25 in length with no need to change any tuning.
I've footed carbons as much as 3 inches before with no change in spine. Keep in mind...the dynamic flex of your shaft is primarily focused on the center of the arrow. Length is the primary factor in spine change - footing anywhere from 1 to 3" on the front will have no affect on your spine based on my experience (and physics :D )
I foot every carbon shaft that I shoot - it reduces the risk of them breaking on a hard impact significantly. I think 1" is probably plenty, but I tend to use 1.5" as my standard. There is a chart on the how-to section of this forum that shows the various sizes needed for the different carbons.
I personally use gorilla glue for my inserts since it expands a bit when it cures, making a superior fit. Plus it takes more heat before breaking free so I can still adjust inserts using low temp hot melt without worrying about the footing.
I personally don't see any benefit to footing the inside of an arrow. The purpose of footing is to keep the insert in tact upon a hard impact. Good luck.
2117- 3555
2219- 5575
2216- 7595
That's funny - I read the post and responded without making the connection that he said the "insert side." My response was for an external footing.
I agree with the above post - can't see the benefit to putting it inside, you'll still crack the outer layer - i.e. the carbon shaft - and get no durability benefit.
Now if you are looking to add more tip weight or something, a footing is so minimal it won't help. The couple inches of footing is only going to be 10 or 11 grains.
QuoteOriginally posted by Caughtandhobble:
I personally don't see any benefit to footing the inside of an arrow. The purpose of footing is to keep the insert in tact upon a hard impact. Good luck.
2117- 3555
2219- 5575
2216- 7595
I think he saying the insert end of the arrow vs the nock end :dunno:
Please keep us posted, I would alsolike to foot some 1535's. Photos would be great.
Thanks for the replies. I should have clarified that I meant the insert side of shaft not inside. Sounds like tune up arrows with out footing and add afterwards, without any side affects from extra point weight from footing. I have tried to post a form video on trad gang before, without success. I am not much of a computer wiz. Maby I caan talk the wife into helping me post some pics when I am done. Looks like a 2117 should do the job. Now I just need to find one.
Thanks again.
PM me your address and I'll send you some 2117 pieces for footing.
GT1535 I use 2114(xx78)1-1/4" about 10gr gorilla glue tony
I use 2117s on 1535s. I am hard on arrows--- stump shooting and find these to be close to bulltet proof as you can get. I also use a 3/8 piece of 2117 at the nock end-- makes it hard for other shooters to damage my arrows at 3d shoots. Rough up shaft, chamfer footing ( I use reloading case prep tool) and install w good two part epoxy. I don't see much impact on bareshaft tuning.
Thanks alot guys. Looks like I got it figured out. Thank you Caughtandhobble for the offer, I sent you a PM. The generosity on this site is one of a kind.
Champed the 2117 so the footing is not " blunt". For easier target removal