I have not done much paper tuning. I usually just bare shaft a little weak, and then make small adjustments with fletched shafts. I usually get very good arrow flight. I am going to shoot a longbow this year, and decided to try both ways and see what I came up with. I normally shoot recurves with aluminum arrows, but with the longbow I am making up 3 dozen cedar arrows.
So I found what spine bare shafted well, then I shot it through paper at about 5 yards. It showed stiff, (fletch tear to the right). Not a lot of tail right just about 1/2 inch. So I dropped down 5 lbs in spine, and shot it through paper. Perfect bullet hole. I checked it at 5,10,15 yards, and got a perfect bullet hole every time. This got me to thinking about my other bows. I shot each through the paper, and all were slightly stiff. I have read about people shooting at a point 100 yards away using the tip of the arrow to aim with. Everything that was in line right and left was considered the "right" spine. Everything to the left was too stiff and everything to the right was too weak. I went out and tried this. Come to find out the ones that shot a bullet hole through the paper were the ones that hit inline with the point I was aiming at. The ones that I had bare shaft tested ended up hitting to the left of the point I was aiming at. I have shot the paper tuned arrows at all distances, and am getting great flight. With the bare shaft method I would once in a while get a little wobble. So for me I think I am convinced that paper tuning has its place. Has anyone else tried both ways, and what differences have you seen.
TTT this is interesting. I've settled on the bare shaft and it's served me well.
I kinda had the non-sense idea that paper tuning was pretty much for release shooting where there weren't my fingers introducing variables shot-to-shot...
Kinda hope some guys post up on this...
Paper Tuning I feel only tells you how the arrow is reacting at "That" given distent. At short ranges the arrow could still be in the Recovery stage giving you a false tear. Alot has to do on your release. For years at the Shop I would test @ 10-15 yards and go from there. I have found the Bare shaft tuning seams to be an easier/quicker way to tune (for me).
X2,
I use the bare shaft method shooting from 25 to 30 yds for rough tuning. Once I get my shafts close(indicating slightly weak)I then proceed to paper tuning.....starting out at 5 feet(which may be too close for some). Once I get my arrows shooting a bullet hole or very close to it(depending on which bow I'm tuning) I then follow up at 10',15', 20', 25' and finally 30'.
The last thing I check is to see how much the arrow vibrates when it impacts the target. Too much vibration means something is not right. Preferably I like to see the arrow impact with very little vibration.....just nearly dead.
Brett
You can use larger fletching to correct a improper spined arro.IMO,is why so many arrosmiths use 5 1/2'' high back feathers.
For me bareshaft tuning has always proved true.
Paper tuning is very tough with a Trad bow as I know very few guys with a perfect realease. I feel without a perfect release you do not true results. Bareshaft will do you well! Shawn
Always shot cedar and will never give them up, but to place either I build a new set of cedars for each shoot or try the GT.
I paper tuned some new GT 55/75 I picked up from our sponor srta. After a couple minor adjustments with nock and lenght of arrow they shot perfect. Added 5 1/2" shileds and I could not be happier.
Part of the releae issue Shawns speaks of IMHO is most guys are under bowed and they cannot no matter what get a clean release. Especially a light bow and deep fingers.
The other reason is most trad shooters I've seen try to paper tune shoot as they would at a 3d target and what I mean is they cant their bow. You cannot paper tune and cant the bow as you will get false readings showing a knock high or low when in fact you are heavy or weak spined. Once tuned cant away.
But like most I've met, as long as it hits where I am aiming, I guess it's tuned for me..
JM2C.
Bareshafting to point of proper tune has always left me with good tear as well.
I like paper tuning and it has always served me very well. I find it quick and very easy to interpret. Bareshafting hasn't worked so well for me, but I need to try O.L.'s method. Maybe next spring; I'm not gonna change anything now.