Rod Jenkins talks about drawing a good line, and picking an anchor point that is on that line.
Now as far as the value of a fixed anchor point for accuracy and consistency is concerned, I have forund it is largely irrelevant at 30 yards or less, for hunting accuracy - hitting say, a tennis ball. Flies in the face of reason, but it's true - or it's in the puddin' I've been stirring. John Schultz said it in "Hitting 'Em Like Howard Hill". Said you can be more accurate shooting quickly, than slow - recommended release on anchor. Watching him, and his teenage son shoot dimes and aspirins in the air, there is no set achor on these shots. Schultz says you can release anywhere along the line. Says it. Watch Byron Ferguson shoot tossed aspirins, or tossed anything. Not realizing he/they were wrong about this, I tried it. Tried it all: anchor and hold /release on anchor / release on "line" with no set anchor point. Got 1" groups at 16 yards, and hit the tennis ball at 20-30 yards. I'm not shooting for IBO championship. Just want to hit the kill-zone hunting.
Do not try this if you don't want to. My goal is to hit what I'm shooting at in hunting condtions - game at varying distances, little time to draw-shoot, game likely moving.
So, the funny results I get are swing-draw release on the line pretty much anywhere along a 2 inch past adequate draw lenghth for power, and I hit dead on (tennis ball)regularly, 5" circle kill zone easily out to 30-40 yards. Spooky.
The point is not about how everyone should shoot. The point is, the elements of hunting accuracy and effectiveness are more the line and form, concentrating on the spot, and pulling through the shot (keeps it all lined up) and follow-through. A smooth, natural, relaxed, rythmic shot (HH Vieos). It works, wonders.
Now, for guys who want to keep all their hunting shots within 20 yards, the release point only has to be on the draw line, and far enough back in the draw for adequate power. At that distance, nearly all bows shoot flat enough so an inch of short/over draw won't make enough difference to miss by an inch. My basic anchor on the mouth draw is 27". But, I can pull to the ear on my 58# Tomahawk and hit the same spot at 15-20 yards. Elevation of the anchor point, does matter, as over/under elevation takes you out of the line. Same for side-cast in the drawhand.
And, it's not snap-shooting. It's a very precise, practiced form: swing-draw, release along the line, pulling through the release, and holding the bowarm on trget for follow-through. But, it's real smooth and relaxed and shockingly accurate.
Try it, see if you like it. It may be a revelation. Worst case, it'll show you the form elements you need to have in a fixed anchor form.
I'm just sharing what I've found, trying to do this. I do not consider myself a good shot. My younger brother is the good shot.
Topic: Snap shooting vs anchor point (Read 7283 times)
