Main Boards > Hunting Knives and Crafters

milling guard slots

<< < (2/3) > >>

Kevin Evans:
Great Job Karl.
Scott I don't break as many now ,after Karl spent two days showing me the above process.
Might add I mostly use 416 stainless,and I use carbide end mill,most of my prolem from breaking was the method I was using and I was not turning it fast enough,after I got those fixed its I don't break as many.LOL
Kevin

Scott Roush:
o you blessed saint. thanks for posting this. guess I need to order more 1/8 mills.   Also I don't have dial indicators, etc. should probably look into that.  I'm gonna have to re-read this....

Karl... I have REAL slaggy wrought iron and I've had problems on the drill press when it hits something real hard.  Do you ever have issues milling wrought???

kbaknife:
Nope.
Don't try to take too much.
Wrought is gummy and grabby.
You're rolling the dice when you mill and drill wrought.
Kevin made a good point - the material you mill and drill should be free machining material like 303 stainless, or mild steel or 416 stainless.
NOT 304!!! 303 is free machining if you can't get ahold of any 416.
The dial indicator is your friend.
Go to Grizzly.com and get two or three of them with magnetic holders.
When I make my take-down nut and drill the pin holes, I use three indicators! One for in-out, one for left-right and one for depth.  
Scott, you know I have a phone number right?

Scott Roush:
thanks again Karl... I just read through this in detail and will give it a shot. Seems like cleaner way to go than the way I was doing it.

I also have to post a sign on my dang mill telling me which direction to crank. I've made more mistakes doing that than anything else. But now I'm gonna rig up some stops

Ray Hammond:
great stuff guys. We should pin this one to the top!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page