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The Bowyer's Bench / Re: More splicing
« Last post by Sam Harper on Today at 12:24:43 AM »
Those are surely going to make beautiful bows.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: Finishes
« Last post by Sam Harper on Today at 12:08:40 AM »
I use Tru Oil because it's really durable, cheap, and easy to apply. I pour some in a bottle cap, apply it with my finger, and wipe as much off with a paper towel as I can. This creates a really thin layer that'll dry within 20 minutes, so I can put on another layer. I can apply 20 layers in two days if I want. If I don't want the gloss, I can take that off with steel wool.

There are two things I don't like about TruOil, though. It can turn the spine of your knife a little yellow. Also, there's this line you can see between the spine where it's part of the handle, and the spine where it's part of the blade. I don't know how to make that line disappear.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: I want to try to make a few knives.... help
« Last post by Sam Harper on October 03, 2022, 11:57:09 PM »
I recommend using 1080 or 1084 because it's easy to heat treat. The reason it's easy to heat treat has to do with the carbon content.

This is a simplified carbon phase diagram.

The vertical line is temperature, and the horizontal line is carbon content. Notice the V-shaped curve forms a point right around 0.80 (it's actually 0.77%). The labels on the different sections tell you the kinds of grains that form at those temperatures and carbon contents under normal circumstances.

To harden a blade, you need to convert as much of it as you can into austenite, then quench it quickly so it forms martensite. Martensite is really hard but also brittle, so you have to temperer the knife to remove some of the hardness and strike the perfect balance between hardness (which helps maintain an edge) and toughness (which prevents the edge from chipping or the blade from snapping).

On the bottom left, steel is a mixture of ferrite (pure iron) and pearlite (a mixture of cementite and ferrite). On the bottom right, the steel is a mixture of pearlite and cementite (basically a hard ceramic made of iron and carbon). But right around 0.80, the steel is completely pearlite with no ferrite or cementite (except what's in the pearlite grain).

When you heat up your steel, you want to convert it all to austenite. To do that, you need to basically dissolve the carbon into the steel so that it's equally distributed. That means you have to break up those grains. If you're on the bottom left, it takes longer because the carbon has to migrate through all that ferrite to become equally distributed. That requires a higher temperature and a longer soak time. If you're on the bottom right, it takes longer and requires more heat because you have to break up the chemical bond of the cementite, and again, the iron has to migrate in such a way to become evenly distributed.

But since Pearlite is a bunch of thin layers of cementite and ferrite, the carbon doesn't have to migrate very far at all. You can get the carbon in solution at a lower temperature with less soak time. You can practically quench it as soon as it comes up to temperature (though I'd soak it at least a minute).

That's one reason 1080 is easy to heat treat. Another reason is because to turn it into Martensite, you have to reduce the temperature really quickly. Since the austenizing temperature is a little lower than it would need to be if there were more or less carbon, you don't have as far to cool your knife off in order to turn it into Martensite. That means you're less likely to fail at turning it into Martensite when you quench it.

A third reason 1080 is easier to heat treat is that by austenizing it at a lower temperature, the grains don't grow as fast. The hotter you get the steel, the faster the grains grow, so it's hard to soak the blade without the grains getting too big. You want fine grains because that makes the steel tougher for a given hardness, and being able to keep it at a lower temperature while austenizing helps control that grain growth.

So for all those reasons (lower temperature = easier to quench and less grain growth, and less soak time), 1080 or 1084 is easier to heat treat than something like 1095.

But it's also inexpensive.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / A farrier rasp Bowie knife
« Last post by Sam Harper on October 03, 2022, 11:25:58 PM »
Last year, there was a YouTube competition where a bunch of YouTubers made Bowie's. I didn't participate in the competition, but after watching all the videos, it inspired me to try to make one. I had only made one before. The design of this one was sorta kinda inspired by Kyle Royer (the way I made the handle anyway). The handle is a take-down construction.

It's a Bellota rasp, mild steel fittings cold blued, and mesquite handle.

At some point, I'm going to make another one. It was definitely one of the more difficult knives I've made. I haven't made a sheath for this one yet.

PowWow / Re: HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!
« Last post by WESTBROOK on October 03, 2022, 11:23:23 PM »
Very nice bow!!

Tell us more...
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: Sometimes I just cant win.
« Last post by Pine on October 03, 2022, 11:20:31 PM »
I have lots of stabilized wood so I'll just try a different piece.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: Recent hunter and fighter.
« Last post by Sam Harper on October 03, 2022, 10:57:49 PM »
Those are really pretty.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: Sometimes I just cant win.
« Last post by Sam Harper on October 03, 2022, 10:56:19 PM »
I don't know what it looked like before, but it's far from ugly now. But anywho, you could try some thick black Starbond CA glue to fill those gaps. It should look pretty good in Buckeye.
Hunting Knives and Crafters / Re: Sometimes I just cant win.
« Last post by Captain*Kirk on October 03, 2022, 10:18:40 PM »
Sometimes those things happen. Not your fault!
PowWow / Re: 2022/2023 Fall/Winter Harvests
« Last post by Bisch on October 03, 2022, 10:13:04 PM »
Congrats guys!!!!

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