Don't know what happened.  E. Donnall Thomas Jr is one of the best outdoor writers out there.  Don't recall ever meeting the man in person.  Would like to share a campfire with him for sure.
 

I hunt in all kinds of temperatures from high humidity warm/hot southern states to drier colder Midwest states. I have lived in an unheated tent for weeks. I leave my longbows in the bed of my truck in a PVC tube rain or shine -10 degrees or 100 degrees never had a problem. The longbow I’m shooting and have been shooting for the last 4 years was built in 1980 and has a leather grip.

Bringing a bow inside a heated house tent etc. then bringing it back outside in freezing temps would cause more concern than any steady temperature.

Some bow were built with leather handles, and do not have a sealer, or finish underneath making it possible for humidity, or moisture to cause a problem. I would not string the bow while it is there.  If you decide to string the bows, and it is much colder or warmer outside, allow them to acclimate outside before string.

I haven’t been on in a while.  I have two bows and for various reasons have them at a property I’m building 20 minutes away.  But they’ve been in unheated garage for weeks now. Some of you guys might know the relative humidity, temperatures in Newfoundland Canada. Lately been around your freezing temp of 32. A little under some days, a little over others.  Will this harm these bows. One is a hybrid Savanahh. The other a 68’ roots recurve.

Ok. I favor angle A in part just because it is easy to see. Angle B is often blocked from view by the archer’s body or gear. I get a clearer sense, as an observer, of when a bow is stacking from watching the limb tip/string angle. You’re right, it is harder to read the angle with RCs, but I sorta draw a mental line to flatten the curve. As you indicated either angle is just a product of limb geometry, bow length and DL.

For sure DFCs are a more useful tool for fine tuning limb design than reading string angles. Your take on limb travel makes good sense to me, as does the limbs stopping dead when the string returns to the brace position, all factors in efficient bow design. Static curves help to keep the string tip angle smaller and they act as levers, easing the draw at the end of the cycle. All good counsel for bowyers to consider.

For some time now I have been experimenting with Ottoman style bows, which in my shop are made of traditional and synthetic materials. They are ridiculously reflexed and short, but finger pinch is not an issue because they are shot with a thumb ring. The limbs can’t help but bend sharply between a rigid grip and static limb tips … seems like something has gotta blow, yet some of the bows have shot more than 2,000 arrows (I count to convince myself of their durability) without failure so far. I had several delaminate at the beginning until I worked out some glitches. A bow that weighs only 13 or 14 oz. is an inch wide at the fades, draws 54# at 28” will shoot a 10 gpp arrow at 200+ fps or a 3.5 gpp arrow at 270 fps. I have gotten into flight shooting, so bow and arrow refinement are current priorities and how I plan to achieve that is just more than I want to get into tonight but I’ll post a couple of pix of a recent build. The string is on this bow is 37” long for a sense of scale.