Thanks.... i understand where you are coming from now.... But.... Glass to core ratio alone is a deceptive thing... Different long bow characteristics are much more dependent on limb shape prior to stringing, riser and fade lengths, a taper rates used, and shifting wedges to manipulate the length of the working limb, and the location where the limb stores the energy.
I can build an exact Howard Hill replica you could not tell the difference in when strung that provides a HUGE gain in performance and no hand shock.... Funny thing is.... I did this 10 years ago and the HH cult wouldn't touch them.... I never took a single order for them... This was because of the unstrung profile wasn't straight.... I guess they use those things as spears on occasion....
The second reason was they shot the arrows too fast, and didn't have that "Thump" after the shot..... You know... that hand shock that requires holding the bow just right so you don't loose your dentures after the shot.... "You gotta learn how to shoot these bows." was the common response to hand shock issues.... Well.... i gave up trying to cater to that crowd, and took the offering off my website. I haven't built one in many years...
Getting back to core to glass ratio..... This is a key factor in a bows performance from one bow to the next.... a 60# bow vs a 30# bow has a large difference in core to glass ratio using the same thickness glass on each one. The 50-60# bow will always out perform the 30# at the same GPP arrow weight.
Trying to get two identical bows to perform the same at the same GPP arrow weight at different draw weights and draw lengths is very tough to do without matching core to glass ratio. Kirk
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