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Bare shaft, nock high.

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So this question is mostly academic, but it's something I cant figure out and it bothers me.  It keeps me up at night. I pace. My wife asked the other day if she should be worried. My one year old's first words were "Daddy? Why does that arrow fly like that?"
  Some of this may not be true.
 But here's what's happening.  I'm trying to pick arrows for a new bow. I've shot 4 different sets of shafts and so far it likes the most expensive ones (naturally), Black Eagle Instincts.   The 500 and 400 spine shafts fly like darts with one notable exception,  the 500's are nock high. Like really nock high. like 4 inch's at 3 yards.
  Since the tail left/right on the 500 is close enough that I could cut it or drop poundage to make it fly well, I suspect it's on the edge of proper stiffness. But that 400 spine is tuned perfect. I just don't understand why I'm getting such a nock high reading. I moved my nocking point on the string around, my tiller is set even on the bow, I even checked the FOC on the arrow wondering if it was being pulled down but at 18% it's in the normal range.
  Has any one else ever seen this?

What is your nock height?

By the way, my belief is that you have to pretty much ignore nock right/left if nock high/low is way out of wack, and vice-versa, because both of them interrelate to some degree.  I think both need to be within 10* of straight before tuning really begins.

Jack Denbow:
I had that problem once and a wise old sage told me how to fix it. The tail end of arrow is bouncing off the shelf when it flexed, just slightly but enough to give you the nock high.
The cure was to build up the shelf no wider than the arrow. I use a piece of the fuzzy part of self-adhesive Velcro, that is usually enough for me. You will have to reset your nocking point.
Internet "experts" chased the old sage away. Tis a shame as he was a wealth of knowledge and now, he is no longer with us.
I think this will fix your problem.

The arrow on the right is the 400 shaft. I can't ask for muck more than that, and these are very repeatable results.
  The tail high ends up being 2.5(ish) inches and that's the best I can make it.  I found d that be lowering my nocking point, the tail high got better, but any lower and both arrows will start reading weak. This is also something I've never come across.
  I could maybe lower the nicking point and then move the rest out (I think moving away from center shot for a weak spine is the correct move), but I'm so close to parallel on nocking point already that doesn't seem like the move.

  On the issue of shelf bounce, because I'm shooting a springy rest, if I was getting bounce I would also be getting a tail right indication (I think). And I dont think it would have gotten better as I lowered the nicking point. 

Sam McMichael:
If I was getting performance like that picture of the 400, I'd quit tuning and go hunting.


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