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Question about file work??

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Jeremy:


This blade was etched in acid (the same I'd use for damascus steel) and then the spine was polished back up.  The recessed areas are a dull gray.  If the entire blade was hard (the spine on this one was left soft) the recessed areas would be black.

You can etch the the blade lightly with any of the typical treatments (gun blueing/browning, archer's etchant (FeCl)) and then polish the entire blade except the recess.

Another option is to bring the recessed areas to a mirror polish, then go back and put a satin finish on the rest of the blade.

I've seen guys use black lacquer as well.

If you do the filework before hardening and tempering the recessed areas will be black.  Just don't touch them after that and they'll stay that way.

tippit:
My knives aren't as finished as most of you.  My file work is done before I normalize & quench my blades so all the recessed areas come out black.  You would have to go back over those cuts to get bright steel again on both carbon & damascus.  I don't...just leave black and polish the spine.  

Lots of different file patterns out there.  This is just first step out of 4 in the vine & thorn pattern...very easy to do plus gives a great grip to the spine of blade...Doc

 

tippit:
Oops, Jeremy beat me to it!  But it shows the progression to a finished vine/thorn pattern.  Nice work Jeremy   :thumbsup:

Doug Campbell:
No worries on the damascus, if it's properly welded you should be able to do about anything to it you'd do to any high carbon steel.

One note, if your forging it just resist the urge to "work" at lower temps. Hammered on that billet yet Doc?  ;)

Lin Rhea:
For you guys who swear by Stainless, there is a product called Stainless steel Blackener. A company by the name of Caswell offers it. I use it on my guards and butt caps where I have filework. You just clean the area with acetone or alchohol and apply with a cotton swab. It works great.
                            Lin

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