Sharpening broadheads and knifes?

[huntin_sparty]

See a lot of threads of sharpening issues and question.  I am one of these people I have hundreds of bucks of sharpening systems, stones and files and just stink at sharpening.  I worked on a woodsman for 2 hours last night and it doesnt seem any different than when I started!

I watched Charlies video in the how to section and did and used exactly what he did.

I have watched video and used Ron's KME system with bad results other than the time Ron walked me through describing step by step on the phone for 20 minutes with me. (wish I video taped!)

Anyhow why do you think people have such a tough go of something that looks pretty straight forward?  (inconsistent pressure, not enough passes)  BTW I stink at sharpening my knife too!

Thanks, Andrew

[MikeW]

Guess would be you keep rolling the edge from side to the other without make them meet at the same place, that's all a sharp edge is, two angles meeting together. On the Woodsman if you have the edge straight and flat which you should if you followed Charlie's instructions I bet if you hold the head in your hand and just let the weight of the file do the work just make a couple passes on each side and then a couple passes with a hone and they would be good to go. The won't feel as sharp as a two blade because of the 30 degree angle but they will get the job done.

[Steve O]

Because they don't get the burr.  Call Ron again and tape it       KME is the way.

Stick with it, one day the light will come on.

I am still waiting for that day btw, but can still get the job done with concentration!

[Jake Diebolt]

Patience is required for sharpening. Like anything else, it takes practice...especially on blades with no jig.

No amount of sharpening equipment can replace determination, patience, and a steady hand.

Also, number one thing with files? Don't push too hard! That was always my problem...I could never understand how my dad could get a broadhead sharp with just a file until I finally learned myself (though I still hone things up afterwards).

Keep working at it, things get better!

[robtattoo]

Consistency. It's all about consistency. Not only must youkeep exactly the same angle from stroke to stroke, you must also use the exact same pressure for each stroke.
I would almost guarentee you're using far too much pressure.

Once you have the initial bevel angle established, you need virtually no downward pressure on a Woodsman or Snuffer to get it sharp.

One thing I was once told (& it rings VERY true) is to not think of it as sharpening. Think of it as polishing. When you polish your car, doyou use two hands & all your bodyweight on the buffer? Do you heck! You use the lightest pressure you can, otherwise your shine turns into a bunch of deep scratches.
Sharpening is the same thing.  

[Blaino]

use a sharpie along the bevel.  that helped me a lot. that way you will see your work a lot better. and like rob said light pressure is the key.

[Wolfkiss]

Little gem of an explanation there Rob,rings so true.

[Buckhorn47]

Been there, huntin_sparty. Those Woodsman and Snuffers sharpen best with the file but as mentioned here, even steady pressure with file.
15 strokes (depending on blade condition), then 10, then five, then 3, all flat across both blades at a time and continually rotating between sets. When complete at three, move to very light pressure, 3 times each round, then 2, then 1 repeatedly until burr is gone. At this point this broadhead will be sharp. Clean it up now by using light pressure with a quality steel, very little pressure. Final polish with leather strop treated with Jewellers rouge and then cardboard. The blade will be gleaming, and will shave hair. It will all fall into place and you'll get to the point that you will know the sound and feel of sharp.

[Shawn Leonard]

Woodsman or Snuffer, big wide mill bastard(1.5"s wide at least) and go from heavy to very light pressure, 3 or 4 strokes heavy and than a few lighter and than a few lighter and than just a light brush, shaving sharp when done. Shawn

[Recurve50 LBS]

I own and swear by the KME knife sharpner. After following Ron's instructions the one thing that I had to teach myself was patience. I was expecting fast, almost instant results and had to force myself to S L O W down my mind and take my time and let the tool do the work. Since slowing myself down and teaching myself to become more patient my results sharpening my knives and broadheads are just incredible.

[sawtoothscream]

i found i wasnt sharpening enough and getting a good burr. or trying to sharpen those really hard heads. thats still pain to me.

[LongStick64]

A quality file is key, not all are built the same. Bought mine from three rivers archery, and finish up using a Japanese fine wet stone.

[michaelschwister]

Ditto Rob's comments.  I have used a file and only a file for all broadheads and an old egyption oil stone for knives for going on 40 years.  My dad was a butcher and as a kid I would watch him using a steel to touch up knives going so fast you could not see the blade. It is really about the right touch or feel. As such, gadget sharpeners really mess me up.  Dean torges has an excellent article on his bowyers edge site about sharpeneing.  FYI, when I sharpen I uuse medium pressure to start, just enough to make the abrase "bite", rotate every few strokes and each cycle use lighter pressure until the file/stone is just  "tickling" the edge. Consistancy and eve lighter pressure. Find someone near you who can sit down walk you through.  I learned by first watching my dad, then by dailly practice as a butcher in college.

[northern lights]

Got the kme b-head sharpner Friday, thanks Ron, wow little bit of time easy on the pressure and the Stingers are good to go, but what really impressed me was I had about a dozen of the bear super razorheads laying around, touched them up and am now missing a slice off my index finger on my left hand never even felt it, good thing I'm a righty, only problem I got now is which head to use their both scary sharp. To make matters worse got a 1/2 dozen of the older woodsmans that I'm gonna see how they turn out using the stones that came with kit, if I get them like the Stingers and Razorheads gonna be a tough call, Kme is the way to go, great product.

[Hogcoots]

I have spent hours with various files, hones, and stones.  I have had one on one instruction.  I have tried various broadheads.  All to no avail.  I just couldn't seem to get them as sharp as I would like and nowhere near shaving sharp.  Finally, someone gave me a small handheld knife sharpener that has two washer wheels that you pull the head through.  Without a doubt, the best thing that could have happened to me.  Now, my Zwickey Eskimos are dangerously sharp. I couldn't be more pleased.

[Huntingnut]

A quality bastard file (I use Swiss grobet's), a sharpie, and very little pressure is all you need.Single bevel, or double bevel doesn't matter.Good even pressure on one side, gradually decreasing pressure until you're just kissing the blade, then flip over and ever so lightly file the other side removing the burr.It'll shave hair with very little effort.

[Bjorn]

All the solutions these days call for buying stuff-maybe it has always been like that. The answer is settle on one method, practice lots properly, and stick with it.
They all work-wheels, stones, files, 600 grit, even the gizmos-they will all work if you use them right. If you buy too much stuff the job becomes too scattered, and you lose the expertise. There is some really good advice here on this thread! Especially about the amount of pressure.

[LongStick64]

I just mounted a 3 blade VPA on my poc shafts, ran the 3Rivers Grobet file 15/10/5 times, shaving hair. As some have said, too much pressure, no good.

[Ragnarok Forge]

File - paper wheel - strop.  They will cut you when you just look at them.

[Bjorn]

"File - paper wheel - strop. They will cut you when you just look at them."

I think that's good right there and can be mastered by most anyone with some practice.


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