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Bio Mechanic Shooting Form
Rob DiStefano:
Coming to full draw and linear alignment (where bone-on-bone of the bow arm wrist, elbow, and shoulders meet), coupled with a string arm that's inline with the arrow, will allow for the least effort and stress on the body by using the mechanical advantage of skeletal alignment for leverage with the least effort from muscles.
Will this work for a trad bowhunter?
Absolutely. :saywhat:
McDave:
Totally agree. The bio mechanic shooting form is just a fancy way of describing Terry's form clock.
The differences come in after you get to full draw with bone on bone alignment. Do you hold or do you snapshoot? Do you aim using some reference, such as the arrow point, or do you aim instinctively? Do you hold the string with two or three fingers directly under the arrow nock or with fingers on each side of it? Do your fingers touch the arrow nock or do you hold the string at some distance below the arrow nock, as in a fixed crawl or string walking? All of these variations have advantages and disadvantages.
Another thing besides alignment where there seems to be universal agreement is the release. Regardless of personal preferences in other areas, everyone seems to agree that a release is either a good release or a bad release, period. I think even if you look at other cultures, such as the Mongolian thumb release, the act of releasing the string still has to be crisp and clean, or the arrow will fly somewhere other than where you would like it to go.
Rob DiStefano:
It's all about getting into linear alignment. Anything less is counterproductive to consistent accuracy with the least muscular effort.
This style of archery form is as bio mechanic as possible and can be used within all disciplines of archery, but typically neglected for the trad bowhunter.
The takeaway key thing is to first come to full body alignment as the bow is drawn, and then held at full draw. Only then can you find out where it's best to anchor the string hand and string to the face. This means that anything to do with form before the string is drawn and after holding at full draw is at least somewhat subjective - do whatever feels/works best. What can't ever change is proper bone inline alignment when actually at full draw, before even finding where to repeatedly anchor the string hand and the string.
Linear alignment will almost always increase draw length for an archer who has some other non bio mechanic archery form. Proper alignment will almost always increase the holding weight as well. But because the lineup of bones is holding the majority of the load, once the draw part is over and alignment is complete, the load begins to feel less because using muscles to get to linear alignment can be a struggle of sorts, but once at full draw it's bone structure that's holding the load, with far less muscles involved.
The part of linear alignment that's really important is the string hand arm at full draw. The bow hand arm is easy - it's a straight line from wrist, to elbow, to shoulder, to shoulder. Now pull back the string ... where does the pulling stop? When the string arm is relatively aligned with the arrow, and its elbow joint is firmly pressed and can hold a pencil. If there is a gap within the string arm there can be no linear alignment because that forearm is no longer in line with the arrow. If the string arm elbow goes past the bow arm's straight line, that's not linear alignment either because it will not be in direct line with the arrow.
Adding to linear alignment is a bow arm and shoulder that's not contorted, but pushing forward, along with a bow hand that meets the bow grip as horizontal as possible.
Rob DiStefano:
Here's one clue for discovering what is your current full draw form alignment. Using some light rubber tubing or a stretch band, pull it to your full draw. Now do the same with your bow. The feller in the image below swore he was at "linear alignment" with his bow until he pulled back a stretch band.
(1) Start your pre-draw steps (stance, bow and string grips, etc), (2) then draw to linear alignment, then (3) come to anchor. Alignment will dictate anchor, fit the anchor to the alignment. Steps 1 and 3 are at the archer's subjective discretion and do what works consistently/accurately best, step 2 is fully objective.
For the most part, draw length and its associated "power stroke" will increase which is typically a good thing. But so will increased bow holding weight that might not be so good a thing.
Terry Green:
Yes Rob, as you know, I call it the Magic T. :thumbsup:
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