Author Topic: Riser design  (Read 891 times)

Offline Fishinglink

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Riser design
« on: October 13, 2020, 06:59:56 PM »
Hey guys. Getting ready to build my first ASL and need an opinion on this riser design. 14” overall length, 2” deep, top fade is 6”, bottom fade is 4”. This is literally 15 mins or so of sketching so critique away. The guy who gifted me the maple is willing to do the cuts for me, obviously the dish in the handle will be post glue up. Thanks in advance.

Online Bvas

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2020, 08:25:05 PM »
Glass or wood bow?
Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

Offline Fishinglink

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2020, 08:30:43 PM »
Sorry glass, guess that makes a difference.

Online Bvas

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2020, 09:07:45 PM »
The deepest part of your grip should be at the center of the bow. 1-3/4” is pretty standard depth at that point. Just remember you will have half your stack adding depth there.
Your upper radius isn’t terrible, but still a little tight/steep. I think you will have one heck of a time getting your lams tight on the bottom radius.
The flatter you can get your ramps/radius the easier glue up will be.
Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2020, 09:33:27 PM »
Brad makes a good point, I think I would run all my lams on the back of the riser and just run the glass up the fades. You can sand down the glass a little if needed to achieve that curve. Thats one hell of dish on your grip. Looks painful actually.

Online Longcruise

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2020, 09:36:27 PM »
Adjust the depth to 1 3/8 to 1 1/2 to arrive at about 1 3/4 depth.  This will make your ramps less radical too.
"In times like these, it’s important to remember – there have always been times like these.”  Paul Harvey

Offline Fishinglink

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2020, 09:51:30 PM »
That’s why I come to you guys. Also why pencils have erasers. So less dramatic ramps and take stack into consideration for riser depth. How are the proportions for the asymmetrical design? My plan was to only run the fiberglass up the ramps figuring that would reduce some stress of getting wood to bend like that. Gonna keep this one simple and just go with flat limbs with possible sting follow.

Here’s a new sketch. Definitely see the difference and looks a bit better.
« Last Edit: October 13, 2020, 10:12:27 PM by Fishinglink »

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2020, 10:26:02 PM »
Not sure what you have going, but you only need 1" difference on the fade lengths, unless you are going for a more radical design with a bigger limb length differential. Personally I think Hill style Bows are more enjoyable to tiller without any lams running up the fades.

Online Mad Max

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2020, 10:35:59 PM »
Not sure what you have going, but you only need 1" difference on the fade lengths, unless you are going for a more radical design with a bigger limb length differential. Personally I think Hill style Bows are more enjoyable to tiller without any lams running up the fades.


Got pictures Flem????????
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Offline Fishinglink

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2020, 11:02:00 PM »
Not sure what you have going, but you only need 1" difference on the fade lengths, unless you are going for a more radical design with a bigger limb length differential. Personally I think Hill style Bows are more enjoyable to tiller without any lams running up the fades.

Looks like I was bringing the fade all the way to the shelf.

Online Longcruise

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2020, 11:09:30 PM »
Your fade transition is rather abrupt.  It will put strain on the transition and create a hinge effect.   It's a common point of failure.   Typically the riser should be no more than 1/16" thick at a point 1" from the end of the fades.  Yours are approximately 3/16" thick.
"In times like these, it’s important to remember – there have always been times like these.”  Paul Harvey

Online Mad Max

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #11 on: October 14, 2020, 09:28:49 AM »
what length riser does a ASL need to have?
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2020, 11:56:15 AM »
Got pictures Flem????????


No sure what pictures your looking for Mark?

12-14" risers are pretty standard for Hill style, I personally like shorties.

Mike is spot on about the fades. The first drawing fades look good and the top drawing of the second sketch also looks good, but the bottom drawing is a no go.

Online Mad Max

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2020, 12:03:19 PM »
show him some risers Flem
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #14 on: October 14, 2020, 12:14:23 PM »
show him some risers Flem

Duh :banghead:

I will post some pics shortly


Offline Buemaker

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2020, 02:55:28 PM »
Did Howard Hill make the risers that way, about an inch longer on the upper limb?

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #17 on: October 14, 2020, 05:59:58 PM »
Actually I think of it as an inch shorter on the lower limb. If done right, the limbs balance/time without having to adjust the stack from limb to limb, or having to resort to extreme tillering.

Online Flem

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #18 on: October 14, 2020, 06:07:48 PM »
Sorry Bue forgot to answer your question. I don't think Howard made asymmetrical risers, but I have not seen that many of his bows. I know some of the bowyers contracted over the years by Howard Hill Archery have used them. Don't ask me which ones.

Offline Fishinglink

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Re: Riser design
« Reply #19 on: October 14, 2020, 08:21:40 PM »
Adjusted the angles to thin out toward the tips of the riser.

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