Tom Mussatto's wicked edge revisited....

[Terry Green]

Tom, wasn't the video, it was my brand spakin new hopped up super dooper magna decoater computer.  I finaly found the missing volume button.

Geezzzzzzz, ....Just how many volume adjustments does a computer need?

[Woodduck]

Object not found!

I got a new 'puter and this is all I saw/heard...

[Terry Green]

Tom updated the video today...see the thread started by Tom.

[Terry Green]

Here's the new link.....

  Tom\\'s sharpening clips...  

Its been added to the Member Video forum.

[lone hunter]

Just wondering if Tom has a tape available or written instructions on this sharpening technique? When watching the clips I get two words and then machine reloads for a couple minutes then two more words. Got through the first two clips and then tried procedure on some Zwickeys, worked great. Need to find out how to sharpen grizzlys.

[ckruse]

Just for clarification, what head is Tom sharpening in this video. Is that a Ribtek? Looks like a great method for all around performance.

[Tom Mussatto]

Mike, I sharpen Grizzly’s the same way. The single bevel actually makes this head easier to work, at least for me. One of the biggest problems in sharpening broadheads free hand is maintaining a consistent stroke and keeping bevels even when working both sides of a blade. I accomplish this with double bevel heads by using the ferrule as a guide. With the Grizzly the flat side ensures consistency as long as you keep the flat side perfectly flat. One of the things all the little sharpening gadgets do is help maintain consistency in stroking each bevel, a must in getting good edges. If you can maintain consistency while working the bevels the gadgets are not needed.

Cameron, that is a Ribtek but one I have reworked. I prefer concave blades so I change the shape of my heads. There are folks with much more experience than I who say that convex heads, such as the Journeymen, are the most efficient. Others say straight blades are best, and others who believe concave are best. I honestly don’t know. I don’t shoot 100 animals a year, exactly duplicating shots for comparison, to come to any kind of reliable conclusion as to which shape is most effective. However, I would ask 2 questions. Here are two heads, both having an effective actual cutting width of 1 1/4". Which one would be least likely to windplane? Which head has the greatest mechanical advantage due to blade angle?

Perfectly straight flying arrows ,and good, durable, sharp blades have more impact on the effectiveness of a broadhead than blade shape, but blade design does have some effect.

   

[Legolas]

Mr. Musatto,
Nice job on the video update. I have had your old one from your website saved on my computer for years. I remember arguing with you until you finally had to show me how you got that edge per video.

Mr. Green,
Tom's latest instruction doesn't leave much doubt how to do the micro serrations. Thanks for the comment.

Paul

[ckruse]

Thanks for the reply and great information. This site is awesome!  

[Tom Mussatto]

I take them down on a grinder. Once you do a couple you can do one in about a minute. Never had a problem with changing temper due to heat but have heard guys say this is possible so take care not to over heat. On a 190 Ribtek you will end up with a head weighing 170 to 175 grains and maintain the same cutting width.

Paul, don't remember any arguments but do  remember some good discussions we and others had on edges. Still have the head we exchanged in my collection.

[Hoodoo Arrow]

Tom:

If you have a minute could you talk a little more about grizzlies.  You say to keep the flat side prefectly flat.  How the heck do you do that and get the burr off.  I have never had any trouble sharpening anything in my life. Gravers, chisels, knives.  You borrow my pocket knife and are brash enough to test it with your thumb, you better have 911 on speed dial cause you are going to need sewed up, but these grizzlies have me so frusterated I could puke.

[Tom Mussatto]

" but these grizzlies have me so frusterated I could puke."

Oh my Gawd, don't do that. :-)

This is not a Grizzly but principal is the same. I don't know if this is the best way to do it but works well for me. The hardest part of free hand sharpening broadheads is maintaining consistency on the angle of file/stone to blade and the single bevel with the flat side makes this easier than trying to keep consistant strokes on two bevels. A simple definition of sharpening an edge is to reduce metal on both sides of a blade 'til they meet on an edge. The closer they meet the sharper the blade.


  Grizzly

[String Cutter]

aLRIGHT, i REALLY WANT TO SEE THESE CLIPS. bUT EVERY  TIME i go to the page with them listed and click on one , All i get is a bunch of computer language filling up the screen.

[Terry Green]

See if this works.....

  Tom\\'s 2 Blade Sharpening clips.

[Hoodoo Arrow]

Thanks Tom:

I usually don't have a problem keeping good angles.  Hard zwickys, soft old razor heads or goofy feeling stainless in steel force, all have sharpened well for me.  I just can't seem to get anything better than a jagged, poor wire edge on a grizzly, and  I loose that when I try to take the burr off of the flat side.  I was tempted to refile the flat side and put an angle on it but haven't cause of the head width.  I dunno.  I might try a little emery paper on a board for the flat side.  It has really gotten under my skin I can't get these things sharp.  Making it hard to think about anything else.  I think the narrowness of the head and proximity of the ferule has maybe got me screwed up.  Thanks for your help.  Leo

[String Cutter]

Thanks Terry, But When I get to the list of the clips and then click on them, all i gett is a screen full of computer language. it drivin me nutts.

[insttech1]

String Cutter:
Open it in internet explorer, not netscape.
Netscape garbles it because of the codec.
I have to open all video from work with IE.

Good luck with it...
Marc

[String Cutter]

Tom, I finally got to see it. But do you use the ferrel as a gauge and run the file down, touching  it the full length ??? Or do you simply get the angle at the hill and lift it lightly off???  I also would like to know how much of the file can you use??? I start almost at the tip of the file and push to the tip of the BH until I've used the complete length of the file. But, from what I saw you do, You only use about an inch or so. Is is there any differnce in either way?? Thanks for your time and keep passing it on.   Tommy

[Tom Mussatto]

Leo, you are right about the width causing problems with the Grizzly's. They are barely 1 1/8" new and it doesn't take much to quickly get them down to an inch. If you are wanting a fine, smooth, razor edge Elburg's original recommendation of lightly filing tip to back may give you better results. By filing into the blade from front to back does not create the big burr, less metal is removed, and you do not need to be concerned with the ferrule getting in the way. I personally don't care for this method as I prefer an edge with teeth in it, and being very uncoordinated this is a dangerous way to file a broadhead for me.

Tommy, using the file closer to perpendicular to blade than parallel seems to be less aggressive and removes less metal with each stroke. With a 6" file it's pretty hard to file back to front the entire length of file and still use the ferrule as a guide. I have to have some kind of guide when free hand sharpening to keep consistency in working each bevel. Once I work a new head down to where the ferrule and bevel match the length of blade I very lightly rest the file on the ferrule and the bevel when stroking the edge. Tipping the file up to get off the ferrule entirely gets me back to the point where of not having a consistant guide.

[John McCreary]

Mr Mussatto Sir, would you be attending the minor gathering at Cloverdale, Indiana on the 11th - 13th of June? If so I will provide your food, adult beverage and what ever else you may require { as long as it be legal } just for a few hours of hands on instruction. Apparently I am file inhibited     and need a tutorial in person. Mr.Rick Stillman and Mr. Chuck Jones will attest to my being a person of low standing if you should require refrences.

John McCreary aka: RUGMAN