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Author Topic: Arrow Buildalong????????  (Read 3715 times)

Offline deepcat

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #20 on: November 17, 2004, 10:11:00 PM »
Im ready for class I got my pencil

Offline Ga.boy

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #21 on: November 18, 2004, 12:29:00 AM »
I'm ready too, and will be following closely. I want to try building some this winter. Hope to get some tools and supplies from Santa.
"TGMM Family of the Bow"

Offline Glasspoint

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #22 on: November 18, 2004, 02:30:00 AM »
Yes, please! And Thank You!!!
The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese...

Offline Buemaker

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #23 on: November 18, 2004, 03:38:00 PM »
Your tapering device, have you drilled a hole in it for the arrow? Thank you. Bue--.

Offline Jason Lester

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #24 on: November 18, 2004, 04:37:00 PM »
I was wondering about the taper device too. I've thought about making one for my sander but wasn't sure how to start.

That looks simple enough to make.
Jason Lester

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #25 on: November 18, 2004, 11:53:00 PM »
OK - we will deal with my taper machine first. The machine is attached to a Grizzly 6" sander with 9" wheel. The Board is Hickory. It has two V-grooves routed into it that terminate at the same spot on the board. One groove is 5 degrees and the other is 11 degrees. I have a flat piece of yew wood to act as a hold down. The hold down is very important. I have an old broken drill bit(very high tech) run through a small piece of hardwood and held in place by a 1/4-20 screw to provide a stop adjustment for the tapers. I can taper both ends of a set in under 5 minutes. The aluminum slide from the sander mitre guage is attached to bottom of this attachment to keep it from turning. That way I just have to keep one clamp on the machine for positioning. I could just as easily drill and tap the table to make it permanant.

fletch
   
   
   
   
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #26 on: November 19, 2004, 12:02:00 AM »
I'll show the paint tomorrow - got a headache tonight. I'll also answer more questions about the sander if you need.

fletch
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #27 on: November 19, 2004, 11:23:00 AM »
My first intention was to use stuff you can buy at the Home depot. In order to make two colors on the crown I had to use gasket lacquer for my white. It performs pretty well and gives me a good base for the second color. Everything else I use can be bought at Home depot for next to nothing. To begin, I marked the arrows at 8" for the crown dip. I put a gasket in an cap seal from a mason jar and screwed it onto my small dip tube with white gasket lacquer in it. I then dip the arrows in the tube up to the line I made on them. It usually take two or three coats to get a good solid bright white on the shaft. this time I got a good finish in two coats. One of my arrows needed a third dip to get good coverage. I made sure that it was one of the lighter arrows in the set. If it was the heaviest arrow in the set - all of the arrows would get three coats. Finish adds weight and you need to be sure that you are applying the same amount to each arrow so that thegroup doesn't become unmatched. About 15 minutes after the White was applied, i cap dipped the arrows in Red lacquer. It is Deft lacquer with red pigment added and I bought it all at Home depot and mixed it myself. If you use red lacquer on raw wood, it will also take two or three coats to get a good solid coverage. NEVER try to apply lacquer over POLY. It orange peels immediately and ruins the project. You can apply POLY over lacquer without problems as a final finish as POLY is not hot enough to affect the lacquer. If you have never finished anything before and you have no experience with paint - write down those instructions and put them on the wall over your bench so you dont get them confused. It will piss you off bad to peel a nice bunch of arrows and unless you are will ing to wait (days) for it all to dry and sand it off - it ruins you shafts as well.

Next is a big note and a trade secret that most finishers won't give you. When you dip any project one-at-a-time, the return runoff will have air bubbles in it. the next shaft will them pick up air bibbles in the finish and it will get worse with each shaft dipped as more bubbles are brought down with the return run-off. In my picture you will see my final finish tubes are a horseshoe. At the final finish stages, you will see that I dip in one tube and allow the runoff to return in a different tube so that I am always dipping in clear liquid. I can dip several dozen shafts without an air bubble this way. The other way, I could only dip a couple of arrows and then i would have to wait for the air bubbles to dissipate.

fletch
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

ALSO - IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE PICTURES I DIDN'T PUT ON THE THREAD AS THERE WILL BE SOME I DONT INCLUDE - YOU CAN VISIT MY PHOTOBUCKET AT   http://photobucket.com/albums/v498/fletcharrows/
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2004, 11:23:00 PM »
I went in and put on some more paint tonight. I think a simple color pattern is best for a complicated fletch pattern. I do hope this thread is helping.

fletch
 
 
 
 
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #29 on: November 19, 2004, 11:24:00 PM »
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #30 on: November 20, 2004, 07:40:00 AM »
I skipped a part - after you put the crown finish on and before you paint. even if you don't put a crown paint on - say you just stain part of the shaft or you want an all natural arrow shaft, you need to seal the arrow shaft. Here is where we can do all of our work with stuff from Home Depot. In the pic you will see an Oil based poly product from Home Depot that costs less than $15 per gallon. It is rated for finishing Basketball courts and is very forgiving. Because we have Bright White paint on the crown, we don't want to put poly over the crown much so we seal the shafts from the point end up and then wipe them off after the poly application. You can apply this same stuff one coat and then paint a crest on a shaft and you will be in the same spot we are in now getting ready to final finish the shaft. After the seal coat dries, steel wool it until very smooth with 0000 steel wool.
 
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Online Huntrdfk

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #31 on: November 20, 2004, 08:37:00 AM »
Mike,

Can the poly be wiped on by hand, or does it need to be done through a gasket type system?  This is a great project, keep it up.

Thanks, David
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Offline Ranger58

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #32 on: November 20, 2004, 08:50:00 AM »
Kudos my friend!  I've already picked up some ideas for my next couple of dozens.  Keep up the great work  :thumbsup:    Can you cover the rate at which you thin your materials prior to dipping?  I've only spray capped so far, and I am looking to go the dip route.  Really liked your dip tubes.  
L8r
Stickbows, Sidelocks and Flyrods, anything to make it more of a challenge!

Palmer Classic w/ 50@28 and 56@27 limbs
58 Kodiak 45@28
Kodiak 59'er 50@28
1958 Pearson Hunter dual shelf 45@28
and my original longbow I used as a kid.

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2004, 01:05:00 PM »
Mike - yes it can be wiped on. I dip to speed up the process. I wipe the shafts as I pull them from the tube because this step needs very little finish.

Lbr - the only product that I thin that I have shown so far is gasket lacquer. EVERYTIME I open the tube or the can I put a few drops of acetone in behind to allow for evaporation. I put the acetone in the dip tube after I finsh so it is ready the next time I go to dip. If you don't, the stuff will get so thick, you can't pull the arrow out. I do the same thing with the can when I open it,I put some in before I close it. If you have used the gasket lacquer then you know it dries in seconds and therefore evaporates its solvents very fast. I use the poly straight from the can. I have used some lacquer thinner to thin it out after long periods of not being used but the stuff is so cheap it is easier to throw it out than to try to save it. You reminded me that guys can spray or dip white using rustoleum paint or others. I will go over how to seal those paints before final finish in the next section.

fletch
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline dosbow56

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #34 on: November 20, 2004, 01:17:00 PM »
fletch,
i was just lookin at your dip tube system, very good idea. do you have a tube set up for each color or how do you empty/clean them out? much better than my golf club tube with a cork in it!
LOL i just picked up a flourescent light tube comver to try out. it's clear so you can see in it where the dip lines are. i have'nt found a plug for it yet though.
dave
"We watch our arrows fly. We watch our friends' arrows fly. We can't wait 'til the next one flies. It's as though we were watching through a child's eyes the same marvelous magic trick over and over."
Dean Torges "Hunting the Osage Bow"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #35 on: November 20, 2004, 03:07:00 PM »
Hi Dave
I have a tube for each color. In fact the colors stay in so long that I sometimes throw out the tubes instead of trying to clean them. You can clean them with acetone after you empty them and then rise with acetone or lacquer thinner. takes about 3 bucks worth of c leaner to get them washed out if you want to change colors.

fletch
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline Ga.boy

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #36 on: November 21, 2004, 11:40:00 AM »
Fletch,
Can the Minwax Polyurethane wood finish that supposedly penetrates, stains and seals be used to seal the raw shaft, and if so how many coats would you suggest? Steel wool between coats?

Thanks
"TGMM Family of the Bow"

Offline Ranger58

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #37 on: November 21, 2004, 01:55:00 PM »
Fletch,
Thanks for the tip on the thinning!  Right now I seal with a spray poly and it seems to work pretty well.  The only problem I've had is that the fletch tape will not hold on my dipped and crested shafts.  Duco works fine, it just takes a lot longer.  
Oh BTW, if you pronounce my sign off out it says later!(L8r)
L8r
Stickbows, Sidelocks and Flyrods, anything to make it more of a challenge!

Palmer Classic w/ 50@28 and 56@27 limbs
58 Kodiak 45@28
Kodiak 59'er 50@28
1958 Pearson Hunter dual shelf 45@28
and my original longbow I used as a kid.

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #38 on: November 21, 2004, 08:22:00 PM »
I'm sure Minwax brand will work great - the next product I use is a minwax product. I'm just not fond of paying minwax prices. It only takes one coat to seal and then steel wool. You can always do more coats of you wish but its not necessary. I often do seal twice if the shaft seems a bit rough or hard to steel wool smoothe. Ranger - I'm not sure why your tape doesn't want to stick to poly - I've used it to do flu flus and it sticks good. Duco is just so much cheaper over the long run and I have 4 jo-jans and a half dozen other fletchers. When I get going I do 2 dozen an hour and use up 2 tubes of glue a day. So what I'm saying is, if your final coat is poly or lacquer, tape should stick.
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

Offline fletcharrows

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Re: Arrow Buildalong????????
« Reply #39 on: November 21, 2004, 08:22:00 PM »
I can't seem to upload any pics to photobucket today - I will continue this thread tomorrow.

fletch
"No..No.. I really mean it - never fry food in the nude"

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