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Main Boards => Dangerous Game => Topic started by: Txnrog on January 23, 2014, 02:04:00 AM

Title: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on January 23, 2014, 02:04:00 AM
Well, I finally bit the bullet and am planning a Buffalo hunt with Mick.

Done all the reading, ashby, andy, etc, but still have several questions.

I am basically going to be working to put together 3 setups
1) 64# @ 31" Rampart Recurve - My go to elk bow
2) Low-Mid 70's @ 31" longbow that I am having built - have an excuse, and not totally sold that the 64# is ideal (I can shoot fine in the low 70's, so why not take advantage of it)
3) 55-60lb compound for my Dad (blasphemy I know, but he's in his upper 70's and is not there with trad gear). Hoping to get a similar arrow setup to one of mine with a couple modifications to properly tune. Figure the bow will probably have similar if not more energy than mine, so using the same concepts of strong FOC, 2 blade heads, single bevel, etc will help him over a 'common' compound setup for buffalo.  

Since the 64# is in my hands I have been playing with that. Got it shooting 915gr arrows (CX 350's Weight tubes, 250 gr head), and they tuned well, but not happy with the FOC or broadhead options that weight.  Have thought about trying Easton FMG DG 300's with a 300gr or 315gr head as an alternative - slightly less deflection so should allow a little more weight up front to help FOC.  I always liked the FMJ's narrow, slick shaft and composite design.

First question: Has anyone produced a commercial internal footing? The reading has me concerned about snapping an arrow behind the head (especially if I go with hidden inserts on the FMJ's) I like the idea of an internal to get the weight up front and allow a little more reasonability in spine without increasing diameter. If not, are there any good sources to learn how to make an internal footing?

Second: Is VPA single bevel in production? I already shoot VPAs and think they are stout and great head, but would like to go with a single bevel.

Third: How much FOC is sufficient? I read about HFOR, EFOC, UFOC, but there are limits within reasonable ability to tune. What should I be looking for as a baseline before I chunk a shaft and start on a stiffer option.

Any and all advice appreciated.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on January 23, 2014, 04:58:00 AM
when are you hunting? i have come up with a BH adapter, insert, internal footing all in one. i'm tuning with the prototype now. when i get it tuned i'm going to get a batch made on a CNC lathe. i'm shooting axis arrows and with a 300gr tuffhead and a 6.75" external footing the total point weight is 730gr. this can be lightened by trimming my 'supadapter'.
PM if interested.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on January 23, 2014, 11:09:00 AM
Going in mid-June of this year.

Also, have seen a couple poor reviews of some of the high end single bevels anyone with such experience, please  PM me so I know why to watch out for.

Thanks,
Roger
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: damascusdave on January 24, 2014, 05:30:00 AM
It seems to me you could alleviate your concern by simply gluing the broad head and hit insert together and then gluing them in as a unit...I also think your goal ought to be the DG250 rather than the 300...you may find the key to getting them to tune is finding just the right "skinny" string

DDave
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 24, 2014, 05:49:00 PM
Are you a RH or LH shooter?  I will tell you this as far as single bevels are concerned.  The Tuffheads are a great head, but the adapters are the weakest link for them.  If you plan on using a glue on, the VPA single bevel heads are great.  I prefer the profile of the tuffheads, but have seen VPA single bevels do fine on water buffalo.  I may have a few stashed somewhere if you can't find any.  If you are trying to get alot of FOC on your arrows, you are going to make it difficult with the dangerous game shafts since they are so heavy.  Same thing with weight tubes.  I used gold tip kinetic 200 shaft, but was using a little heavier setup than you will be.  I had mine cut down to 30", though.  I had 100 grain inserts in the shafts, 100 grain broadhead inserts, and 300 grain tuffheads on the business end, which gave a pretty good FOC.  If you are LH, give me a buzz.  I might have a setup that I would let you borrow for your hunt, if you are interested.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on January 24, 2014, 10:26:00 PM
Thanks for the incredibly generous offer, unfortunately I'm a righty.

Will most likely go with a screw on - never really trust the glue ons for some reason. Plus gives me a little optionality
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 24, 2014, 11:01:00 PM
No problem.  I have a Black Widow MA 3 that sits on the shelf that is 65# @ 28" that should have put it in the mid 70#'s at you draw length.  Would have been nice to see someone get it bloody.  It is a little light for buff at my 29" draw length, although I know of several people that were successful with a setup no stronger than it would have been for me.  I just have better options.  If you are set on a single bevel screw in, the VPA is very tough.  If you could find some very strong adapters, then Tuffheads would be hard to beat, IMHO.  Either will get the job done.  If you hit the head of the humerus, there, and likely the spine of the scapula as well, nothing will save you short of a firearm.  PM Andy Ivy or Mick Baker.  They will be a wealth of information with the experience they have.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Michael Baker on January 26, 2014, 07:49:00 AM
I'll have the perfect arrow just waiting for him when he gets here...It's a surprise don't tell him...lol..

Cheers
Mick
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: hybridbow hunter on January 26, 2014, 04:06:00 PM
You can ask for custom A4 steel insert as infernal footing. Mine are 200 gr, HIT size and goes perfectly in tuffheads. I could cut the tail a tad to go down to 150 gr
It Is really tough.

  (http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx225/hybridbowhunter/image_zps1b54c72f.jpg) (http://s758.photobucket.com/user/hybridbowhunter/media/image_zps1b54c72f.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 26, 2014, 11:29:00 PM
Laurent, where did you order those?  I don't know anything about A4 steel.  Are they much better than standard steel inserts?  If the inserts hold up, those would be awesome.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Michael Baker on January 27, 2014, 05:54:00 PM
It doesn't really matter how strong the insert is it is how strong the arrow wall is to support the insert, With the insert being longer that will help as per those inserts above.....Outserts will far outperform inserts as the whole arrow has to break before failure not just the sidewall. In theory an outsert is better than 100% stronger or in other words twice as strong. It is also far harder to bend an outsert than and insert.  Cheers Mick
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Blaino on January 27, 2014, 07:23:00 PM
What about hardwood shafts with a solid proven BH that gets in the ballpark of 1000g.
It has worked for a lot of bowhunters. Why not you?
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 27, 2014, 11:21:00 PM
Mick, Do you mean external footings? I had external footings and the broadhead adapter/insert still bent.  Not sure if that is what you meant.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Michael Baker on January 28, 2014, 01:20:00 AM
Pat it is the same principle as footings but as a single piece. footed arrows are not attached to the insert so they still have a weak spot at the join....I make full outsert that the broadheads screws into so it is one piece.
Widowmaker arrows outserts and broadhead

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/trophybowhunts/image_zpse9e14d94.jpeg

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/trophybowhunts/image_zpsea7b4004.jpeg

Cheers
Mick
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: calgarychef on January 28, 2014, 12:41:00 PM
Yup, an external footing will be incredibly strong, make sure its longer than your broad head adaptor is.  You'll also gain a lot by glueing the broad head adaptor, you can use heat reversible glue so you can remove the heads if you want to later.  In fact glueing every component together makes a lot of sense; nocks, adapters, footing.  Don't forget a nock collar as well as you might shoot the arrow more than once and I hate it when the nocks mushroom into the shaft and split it.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: hybridbow hunter on January 28, 2014, 05:42:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by pdk25:
Laurent, where did you order those?  I don't know anything about A4 steel.  Are they much better than standard steel inserts?  If the inserts hold up, those would be awesome.
Those were made by a friend working in tool building. Very strong. If you add external footing it´s really impressive the punishment you must give to brake a shaft. Using titanium same insert will be much lighter in the 110 gr plus you can cut it down if needed.
I am sure a company like VPA could build very easily those insert, solid steel or titanium for a fair price, as there is no threads nor complicate shape. I can't understand why there is so strongly designed and we'll made broadheds glued on so poor brass ou aluminum inserts
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on January 29, 2014, 12:51:00 AM
Mick, What's the outside diameter of those arrows? and weight - i.e. can I tune an arrow over here to those things and put them on once I get over?

Looking forward to it. Working on putting together a heavier setup, and hitting the rubber bands nightly.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Michael Baker on January 29, 2014, 01:48:00 AM
Mate will send you an e-mail. Cheers
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on January 30, 2014, 10:33:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by hybridbow hunter:
You can ask for custom A4 steel insert as infernal footing. Mine are 200 gr, HIT size and goes perfectly in tuffheads. I could cut the tail a tad to go down to 150 gr
It Is really tough.

    (http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx225/hybridbowhunter/image_zps1b54c72f.jpg) (http://s758.photobucket.com/user/hybridbowhunter/media/image_zps1b54c72f.jpg.html)  
good for extra weight upfront but no strength gains over a standard screw in adapter since the shank on those are the same diameter as a screw in adapter straight off the back of the taper, which is the likely failure point along with the back of the footing.

better go and take pics of my supadapters............
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on January 30, 2014, 11:10:00 PM
this is what i've come up with. this is a prototype. i plan on getting a batch machined up soon. they will have glue glrooves added. the prototypes were hand machined so it wasn't necessary to add glue grooves at that stage.

they are designed for use with tuffheads. they have a taper slightly larger than 23/64" (little bit bigger than the 23/64" ferrule of the tuffhead) then step down to match an axis shaft's outside diameter. this maximises strength at the back of the BH. then it steps down to HIT insert diameter. the last portion is able to be trimmed if weight needs to be brought down. they are machined from high tensile steel.

   (http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/ozyclint/IMG_6777_zpse43b072e.jpg) (http://s530.photobucket.com/user/ozyclint/media/IMG_6777_zpse43b072e.jpg.html)

   (http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/ozyclint/IMG_6778_zpsba3ffa54.jpg) (http://s530.photobucket.com/user/ozyclint/media/IMG_6778_zpsba3ffa54.jpg.html)

   (http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/ozyclint/IMG_6779_zps41e6a69f.jpg) (http://s530.photobucket.com/user/ozyclint/media/IMG_6779_zps41e6a69f.jpg.html)

   (http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/ozyclint/IMG_6780_zps425b5f85.jpg) (http://s530.photobucket.com/user/ozyclint/media/IMG_6780_zps425b5f85.jpg.html)

in my oppinion you want the rear of the footing to be behind the balance point of the arrow. this way the center of mass has NO leverage on that point. the rear of the footing is being dragged into the beast. this is why i have a 6.75" outside footing. this serves the purpose of adding weight, strengthening and stiffening the shaft since i have 730gr upfront out of a 70# border black douglas. even on a full length shaft the flexible portion is around 25" long. basically a 25" arrow with an 8" point. then you can still trim as normal.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 30, 2014, 11:11:00 PM
That is true unless it is a different type of steel than is used in the standard inserts.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: pdk25 on January 30, 2014, 11:14:00 PM
I guess those other posts/pics made it up before I made my reply.  Interesting setup, Clint.  Let us know how it works out for you.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: hybridbow hunter on February 01, 2014, 09:03:00 AM
Clint, standard adaptaters flex upon hard impact because metal used is soft. With those type of hard steel insert it never happens and when an external alum footing is used along it is extremely strong,arrow is virtually unbreakable for several shots, at least against plain concrete with a low 60+# @31+" Border hex6 bb2 bow like yours, as I couldn't get a shot to buff at this time   :(  
The set up you show is interesting though but very heavy point !!
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Muz1970 on February 04, 2014, 08:37:00 PM
Hi Txnrog, I'm curious if you've settled on a arrow set up for your Buff trip. I'm in exactly the same vote as you. With the same poundage longbow and draw and I've got a 5 week trip planned in Sept/Oct chasing Boars and Buff.

I've been tuning full length Goldtip Traditional shafts in 75/95(300). I'm using the Outback 220 FE broadheads, 100gn brass insert, 3 x 50gn weights and 5" of 2213 footing for 520grains up front. This gives me 26.5% FOC and 910gn total weight.

Adjusting the length of the footing once I got the weight up front I wanted was the only way I could tune the spine. Due to the fact that I cannot shorten the 32" arrow length.

I really like the idea / concept of Ozy Clints super adaptors. It would also give you the opportunity to shorten your arrows if required for tuning.

Cheers Muz
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on February 04, 2014, 09:51:00 PM
I'm still working on it. Just got a pair of 66# A&H limbs and a riser and was at the shop last night playing with it. Getting pretty good performance out of it.

Got Gold Tip Kenetic 200's shooting well with it and 300gr heads. I am also ordering some Easton FMJ big game 250's to play with - I like those slick narrow shafts.  

I really like the insert on the Gold tip's but they are aluminum (they also fit the Easton FMJ's) - talking to a guy about having some similar machined with steel and an extended length to act as an internal footing, Then going with an external aluminum footing.

I want the FMJ's but with their gpi weight, think I am ultimately going to have to go with the lighter, stiffer gold tips to get the FOC without creating lawn darts in the process.

Shooting for 800gr or so, but we'll see what works- my 915 gr CX 350's dropped about 2 ft @ 15yrds compared to the 720 +/- Goldtip 200's - which zipped out quicker than my deer/elk setups.

Muz - good to know that 5" of footing can have that big an impact on spine.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Muz1970 on February 05, 2014, 12:57:00 AM
I found that for every inch of footing I could add approximately 50 grains in point weight. The 300's bare shafted at 250 grains with out a footing. I can also shoot them at 400 grains with 3" of footing. And like I said they shoot great at 520 grains with 5".
The extra penetration from the 910 grains verses the 780 grain arrow shot into the end of a tight bale of hay is sum 4-6". I've only shot them out to 15 yards but are spot on. Now I have to make a matched field point set to practice with.
Not that it matters but I'm curious to find out the arrow speed out of my bow at that weight.  Will hopefully borrow a mates chrono.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: hybridbow hunter on February 07, 2014, 01:39:00 PM
Googleing a bit you can find in USA strong steel custom insert not that pricey:

  http://traditionalarcherysolutions.bubbaspc.com/traditionalarcherysolutions/shopping.asp
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: hybridbow hunter on February 07, 2014, 01:58:00 PM
Double post
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on February 18, 2014, 10:10:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by hybridbow hunter:
Googleing a bit you can find in USA strong steel custom insert not that pricey:

   http://traditionalarcherysolutions.bubbaspc.com/traditionalarcherysolutions/shopping.asp  
Just placed an order - eyeing getting something like Ozzy Clint's made as well.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on February 19, 2014, 06:08:00 AM
i would sell them but i think it would be too niche a market. mine work for my choice of BH and shaft. change either and the dimensions of the adapter might not be optimal for different shafts or heads. i wanted the best i could get for my setup. to have a more universal adapter will mean comprimises.

even spine differences between axis shafts means the 1st step needs to be a different diameter to suit the OD of the shaft.

it's something that needs to be custom made.

impossible to come up with a totally universal one while having the most optimised design for any given combo of BH and shaft.
what's the point of going to the trouble of making bombproof buff arrows if it isn't the best design possible.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on February 21, 2014, 01:24:00 AM
Well, I am not totally set yet, but probably pretty darn close.

Goldtip Kenetic 200's (.200 spine)
100 gr insert
250 gr head
7 inches of xx75 2016 footing

dummied up the insert with screw in weights to practice while I have some steel ones made - half-in-half out screw ins. I really like the idea of a screw in since it gives me some optionality and is a bit easier to travel with.

A tad over 800gr total weight.

Would like to be at 300gr on the broadhead, giving 850gr total weight, but I'm a tad weak with those, and the 250's fly like darts. Could always go a tad longer on the footing, but that feels like overkill to me. Pretty decent selection of broadheads at 250 as well (abowyer, VPA, etc.)
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on February 21, 2014, 04:30:00 AM
which bow are you shooting that out of? that's an amazingly stiff arrow, .200 with 7" footing.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on February 21, 2014, 09:31:00 PM
66lb A&H ACS but I am probably getting more like 70lbs out of it at my draw length.

Correction xx75 2013 footing
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Fanto on March 06, 2014, 05:36:00 AM
Have you read Ashby? He is the no.1 authority on these matters.

His internal footing is a 7" long 1/4" Ida dowel, sanded down a little from the middle back, glued in  behind the insert and only glued the first 3.5"
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: calgarychef on March 06, 2014, 10:14:00 AM
I agree with Clint that arrow is darned stiff, if you're determined to use them I'd shorten the footing and go with more upfront weight.  I've got 63# ACS and shoot 350 carbon heritage express, 100 gr. inserts, 350 gr heads (I think, it's been awhile and I'd have to weigh them to be sure) and footings are about 1 1/2"

Have you bare shafted them and tested your  groups? Don't forget that arrow flight trumps everything, and an arrow that looks like its flying nicely might not be striking nicely.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on March 10, 2014, 11:55:00 PM
Bare shafted them before even putting feathers on and building a full set. Fly like darts - if I put a 300 gr head on them, they fly weak. I was surprised too, but it is what it is. I am drawing to 30in, so it definately adds a bit of oomph behind them.

Grouping is so-so, but I am still working myself into the bow. Group fine when I do my part. The A&H shoots to the right on me, but I understand that's a common problem since they are more center cut than most.

I am getting 170fps or so, actually want to get the arrow weight up a bit, but think it'd require me to extend the footing even moreso to do it.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: calgarychef on March 11, 2014, 11:54:00 AM
Did you shoot some with feathers and some bare at the same time?  Or all bare?  If you're shooting to the right something is haywire, an ACS should definitely shoot where its looking unless you've been shooting bows with no or minimal cutout.  Do you mind my asking how tall you are?
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Al Kidner on March 11, 2014, 04:57:00 PM
What sort of total arrow weight are you running with that set up Clint?
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Al Kidner on March 11, 2014, 05:03:00 PM
G'day Tracey, I'm still coming to CA in June mate !
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on March 11, 2014, 06:51:00 PM
they are around 1075gr at the moment. Yet to finish tuning.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on March 11, 2014, 11:44:00 PM
Calgary - I have actually been practicing with 5 feathered and one bare since i first tuned them and they all shoot the same. I had not shot an A&H before this so it is a bit of an adjustment - tend to shoot straight handled pronghorn-type longbows and recurves well.

I left one bare so I could watch if my form is faltering with the additional weight of the bow. Currently without fail, I start out about 3-6 inches right and work myself back in. I am about 6ft, have a pretty deep anchor, but had someone work with me early on and that's where it settled.


Ozzy - You think I will gain any significant performance/penetration with another 100gr or so?
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on March 12, 2014, 03:12:00 AM
with my the bob lee i used which was 69#@28" (i draw 26") i found the point of diminishing returns for momentum was about 1000gr. That's 15gr/# at my draw. With your setup being 800gr out of a 70# at your draw high efficiency longbow, yes in my opinion you have gains that you can make with a heavier arrow. It has to be balanced with a trajectory that you are happy with. You can get away with a loopy arc with buff as they are big and you can usually get close. Remember structural integrity trumps even accuracy with buff. Perfect shot is no good if it breaks on the ribs. This i know! Hence my new design of buff arrow for my next hunt.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozzyshane on March 16, 2014, 02:58:00 AM
Txnrog i draw the same as you but a lot less weight and even with lite weight i need a lot of spine the guys with short DLs have a lot more shafts to work with.
Have you tryed to build out the riser a bit i would say you are still under spined a bit that is why when you start shooting you go to the right(a strong shot) but after a few you hit middle that is i bet when you get a bit tired you may be short drawing a bit.
Thanks Shane
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on March 21, 2014, 12:59:00 AM
Thanks Shane - that makes sense. I am getting a bad rub on the outside (left) edge of the shelf. To the point that all the the felt is gone, and I haven't had the bow that long. This makes me think I may be a bit weak still. It also seems to be shooting better the times I know I am short drawing a bit - i.e. when I get fully into my back muscles and pull through - high left every time. Short stroke ir a bit and right where I want to be.

Battling a bit with trying to tune and get used to the weight at the same time.

Getting closer to 'comfortable' with it, but still not as consistent as I know I can shoot.  

I may be able to get away with shortening the arrow by about an inch - been going with full lengths so far @ 32 in.  I would really like to get a little more weight in these arrows and trying to figure out how to stiffen them even more. May play with the footing a bit more, though it already feels long and hasn't stiffened it like I would think it should.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: halfseminole on March 25, 2014, 12:31:00 PM
Just something to pass along to you guys-you seem to be rediscovering Asian pointing, especially such as Turkish arrows had.  Many had internal tangs of 6" or more, the tang could be cut to tune an arrow, and with a horn cushion behind the point and a bone collar on the cane behind it, those arrows have been proven to kill a cinder block.  There's lots of experimentation that's been done, a lookup of the free e-book Saracen Archery will tell you lots about how their integral head/footing worked.

I shoot whenever I can with heads like that, and I'm finally dropping the coin to try and make them, but mine won't probably be ready for a long time.  My point is, with their tuning and durability advantages, I prefer that type of point over anything else.  If it worked for fully armored humans, it might help you guys, too.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Txnrog on April 03, 2014, 12:55:00 AM
So I have to say I was really pleasantly surprised today. I had Larry at A&H archery put together a new set of limbs using their new design. Was  hoping to get a second, heavier set of limbs for the buffalo hunt.

Well, he undershot the weight but sent them to me to try out along with another heavy set of the older design he had in stock. Dropped 8lbs in draw weight and picked up the exact same performance as my current limbs - pretty darn decent trade off. The 66lb, 63lb, and new 58lb limbs all shot within 5fps of each other using my 815 gr arrow - between 170 and 175 fps. Keep in mind I'm picking up another 4-5lbs at my draw length.

Gonna monkey with the setup one more time, but think I am pretty close - need another 50gr up front to have the best selection of broadheads and the addtl weight can't hurt if I can get it to fly right. Once I get confirmation that my inserts are gonna be ready, I can move onto broadhead selection.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: Benny Nganabbarru on September 08, 2014, 02:35:00 AM
Well, I might be in the minority... my favourite buffalo arrow is the Grizzlystik Safari. They fly beautifully for me, and are simple and straight-forward. With the internal weight system, they are easy to get nicely nose-heavy and still fly great. They can handle a range of point weights and be shot from a variety of heavy bows.
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: TexasKing on February 21, 2016, 07:51:00 PM
Title: Re: Waterbuffalo Setup Advice
Post by: ozy clint on October 15, 2018, 06:34:17 AM
well i've been doing some tuning again. looks like an axis 340 with my supadapters, 300gr tuffhead and 5.75" 2020 footing. 33.5% FOC. 1006gr. more fine tuning to come. chronoed it at 155fps. .6917 Momentum. 70# border recurve.

the balance point is within the footing. this should eliminate breakage behind the footing.